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No. Not normal. Mech LSD should turn the left wheel forwards when you turn the right wheel forwards. Open diff does the reverse. If the opposite wheel does not turn at all, I cannot explain what you're experiencing. Something must be f**ked. -
Ok another question. I have everything back in the car I have a very Uneven part of my driveway and one wheel is nearly touching the ground. Only the one barely hitting the ground is spinning. There are no weird noises when driving. Jacking the car up and turning one wheel, the other does not spin and same if I turn the wheel on the other side. But when I put the car in gear and drive, (in the air) both wheels spin. Is all of this normal? -
10:1 it's just the reg is seized.
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None of the above. G30 660. Call it done. Or, BW EFR, or one of the other similar modern options. In the BWs we're talking EFR 7670 with the twinscroll turbine housing. Sorta good for 650HP at the flywheel, which should be more than enough. Broadly speaking it's equivalent to the G30 660. None of this is cheap like the OP's original options, though. The PSR3576 is also a bit larger than the new power target would suggest using. The ATR43SS3 was always a smaller choice than the PSR. 600 fly vs 750 fly. So they weren't ever comparable options. I would think the ATR43SS2 or 3 would do what is (now) wanted, especially if E85 is the path to making the target. Tao's own recco is for an SS2 on E85 for 340rwkW, which is almost exactly on target. The SS3 would have more headroom, but it really demands a 4" inlet. I would probably try Tao's reccomended turbo at <1/3 the price of the name brand stuff I suggested above.
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G25/30 Series. Nobody seems to run a BW EFR anymore, and not at a 320kw power level on 95 gas. I did back in the day on a RB28, I don't think anyone ever ran a 7163 on a RB25. That said, a G series is going to be much easier to fit being physically smaller which is more helpful than you might think. The turbo is the only thing that really adds power to the car. It is the most important of all selections. Do not skimp on it. If it's a budget issue, save longer. The difference between a G series and these other options will be like 5% when all is said and done. What's an extra $1000 now when you look at it through the lens of all the $ already spent to support..... the turbo to do its job well. I see it in LS worlds too, where they spend $50,000 on the motor to run 2x $300 ebay china turbos on the f**kin thing. With engine consumables, well - they all are. Just less with less power. It's either already rebuilt... .....or it's a 25 year old engine you are wanting to boost to (at least) 200% of stock power. It would be very wise to consider what the plan is, and be ready for it, when something does go south. Don't be that guy with a just completed-now-broken-car because you didn't budget for things to go wrong, which is how a low of projects end up sadly.
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