Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there was a blanket ban on them, for a while but they are starting to get wise, we were in talks with some-one who does drone following for arc as a friend of a committee member, he has all permits, but could not work out dates.

Am hoping now that things like rally V*'s and such use them that it becomes more frequent and easier to get. same as drone licencing from CASA is getting progressively easier.

3 hours ago, UNR33L said:

usually I use my motorbike Helmet & gopro mount works well get to see what the driver is looking at cones / direction etc. 

 

Has anyone tried mounting the gopro right in front outside the mouth part?

 

1 minute ago, Down_Shift said:

 

Has anyone tried mounting the gopro right in front outside the mouth part?

 

thats exactly what I do, and its by far the best position. 

basically this (not mine but similar setup):

s-l1000.jpg

  • Like 1

Why not dash cam it? Even using a shitty ass $80 dash cam from 8-10 years ago picked up pretty good view and sound for me. I would think anything modern be very good quality and bonus you can just leave it installed and use as a dash cam...

whilst the res of those is great the ones I've seen have been fairly slow FPS (prob for space) where as the dedicated ones are much better. (not looked for a while however)

 

will install one in next car, think I could do a whole dash cams aust streams just from my 1 a week trip to work

HUme hwy brings out the worst in people

 

There was a really good dash cam a couple years back, pretty exxy but it was made for racing - had awesome quality video and GPS logging for lap timing with 10mhz(?) signal.

6 hours ago, Birds said:

next moment car gets broken into to steal dash cam....

I remember having detachable face stereos worth less than a decent set up dash cam, or mobile phones that every-one was scared to leave in a car.

 

now throwing man $$ to something very obvious to outside folks. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, emts said:

next moment car gets broken into to steal dash cam....

I remember having detachable face stereos worth less than a decent set up dash cam, or mobile phones that every-one was scared to leave in a car.

 

now throwing man $$ to something very obvious to outside folks. 

Some of them remove pretty easily with their shoe mount, I wouldn't want to have to screw it off every time

Yeah that's a bit of a worry, $500 item sitting in plain sight, who can be stuffed removing it every time.

Those Sony XPLODE head units were the bomb, all dem bright red LEDs before RGB came into play.. the double dinn Pioneer head units were for the rich kids  

Edited by UNR33L
  • Like 1

Saw late 80's hilux on city link this morning, dints and rust on every single panel. Removed rear light globes so only the brake lights work. No lights illuminating the personalised and unreadable numberplate. Full dodgy, escaping tolls and speed cameras.

Has primo quality dash cam hooked up and iphone holder for maps. Car was a wreck, maybe waiting for perfect insurance claim.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, does anyone know how I can, or can a moderator remove this advertisement please.  Has been sold a long time ago and would like to remove references. Thanks. 
    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
×
×
  • Create New...