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Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0


R31Nismoid
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Don't forget about the bet he had with Barry about having it finished by Christmas time last year or lunch is on them.

did they buy subway? I'm guessing subway.

 

Pats car isn't too far from being on the road, and that build got a lot bigger than originally planned...

 

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Admittedly going against my own advice with that setup, as I don't know of anyone who's shot for response / disregarded power on a stroked GTR at the risk of choking their turbos etc. But GTR people are funny and in a lot of ways retarded - to many of them, responsive means boost by 4500rpm hence the catch cry "put -10s or huge single on it bro" (aka "what's a gearbox / traction?") etc. Your redline might be 8000rpm but you don't have to use it.

Responsive to me is /full/ boost by 3000-3500 and not needing the top 2000rpm because you can pull hard in any gear. The cars are quick in their own right from factory and hardly laggy. Increase in displacement with a proportionate increase in turbo size should produce a much faster version of the factory vehicle without sacrificing drivability or breaking parts. 4th gear roll ons from 80 and such...

The -9s came with the car, so am happy to buy something bigger down the track if the experiment fails.

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1 hour ago, TiTAN said:

 


Being one of the early 3l crowd. It seemed far easier and cheaper than it actually turned out to be.

Doing it again would keep the 25 and go a 3071 or 3076. Job done, solidly fast car, not a lot of $$.

 

Be worth it in a drag setup or something with great traction, but considering what the cars can do just fine with 2.5 litres and those turbos...

When I was deciding on turbo for GTS-T I spoke to people who formerly had high flows and then upgraded to 3076 or GT35 etc. Each one said if they had their time again they'd just have stuck it out with the high flow...keeping this in mind has helped me avoid chasing any more power in it.

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3 minutes ago, Count Grantleyish said:

Sooooo Birds, did your pal Baz buy you many lunches?

I traded them in for free welding...

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he owe's 6 months worth of lunch's at the moment 

serious note tho, when you actually get it back? lol

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lol, so does everyone else who has a car that sits out of the front of Edge.

got curious about supra prices. lol.

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Toyota-Supra-1996/SSE-AD-3503755/?Cr=3

" The interior and exterior is in perfect original condition. Unmarked. " every drive is always excitement in a super car " Body modification kit and additional three coats of optic silver paint by pro body shop." I am the second driver and owner of the car, bought from a Japanese business friend " Body kit: Calsonic USA (exclusive one off ): " 275 X18 "inch rear..Max..super grip. "

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7 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

lol, so does everyone else who has a car that sits out of the front of Edge.

got curious about supra prices. lol.

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Toyota-Supra-1996/SSE-AD-3503755/?Cr=3

" The interior and exterior is in perfect original condition. Unmarked. " every drive is always excitement in a super car " Body modification kit and additional three coats of optic silver paint by pro body shop." I am the second driver and owner of the car, bought from a Japanese business friend " Body kit: Calsonic USA (exclusive one off ): " 275 X18 "inch rear..Max..super grip. "

Mine is an inside resident

And likely safer there than at my new address

Reminds me, I need to increase my agreed value

Also Supras have gone the way of GTRs. RX7s too. Would invest years ago.

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Admittedly going against my own advice with that setup, as I don't know of anyone who's shot for response / disregarded power on a stroked GTR at the risk of choking their turbos etc. But GTR people are funny and in a lot of ways retarded - to many of them, responsive means boost by 4500rpm hence the catch cry "put -10s or huge single on it bro" (aka "what's a gearbox / traction?") etc. Your redline might be 8000rpm but you don't have to use it.
Responsive to me is /full/ boost by 3000-3500 and not needing the top 2000rpm because you can pull hard in any gear. The cars are quick in their own right from factory and hardly laggy. Increase in displacement with a proportionate increase in turbo size should produce a much faster version of the factory vehicle without sacrificing drivability or breaking parts. 4th gear roll ons from 80 and such...
The -9s came with the car, so am happy to buy something bigger down the track if the experiment fails.

I kinda did this. When I first got my car it took a while to climb up on boost.
One of my requests with it being retuned was to make more torque at lower RPM. We (Racepace) basically moved the power band down approx 1000 rpm.
The car is much nicer to drive on the road even if it is 100kW down at the tires. It's a good middle ground for drivability.
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6 minutes ago, Steve85 said:


I kinda did this. When I first got my car it took a while to climb up on boost.
One of my requests with it being retuned was to make more torque at lower RPM. We (Racepace) basically moved the power band down approx 1000 rpm.
The car is much nicer to drive on the road even if it is 100kW down at the tires. It's a good middle ground for drivability.

How was this achieved? Through tune alone or camshafts / gears?

When I had my GTS-T tuned by Chris I told him I wanted midrange, didn't care about top end. Torque wins drag races, afterall lol

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5 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

did they buy subway? I'm guessing subway.

 

Pats car isn't too far from being on the road, and that build got a lot bigger than originally planned...

 

all i wanted was a rb20 refresh and now we are here...although the gtx3071 is tucked below, a large manifold spacer was used which i fear will cause the dump to clash with the aircon lines...thats Havoc's problem when he will be fabricating custom intercooler piping, airbox intake pipe & dump pipe...

enginebay.thumb.jpg.6fdba740427b5e779d36450578d1a713.jpg

 

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10 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I have been a few times, I did 11.9 on my old setup with AD08R's and an intercooler pipe blowing off half track because of course something like that would happen to me.

So it was a nice weird time of a 11.9 at 116mph with a 2.2s 60ft.
I went weekend before last to test and tune with the BW EFR and MT drag radials and went slower because I had even less grip cause it turns out the tyres I bought are 10 years old because of course they are  and my 60ft was 2.6.

My car only makes 320kw atm :P

If I was Toby, for simplicity's sake I would put the GTX3071 on. Simply because it bolts on. Saves time, saves money, will work 95% as well in all the scenarios that exist. The EFR can be "made" to fit, but who is making it fit? The one thing I learned fitting it is that it is NOT bolt on, even though everything "should be" things don't always line up, you have to move this, fabricate that, take 6 hours thinking "Where am I gonna run this line..." or "I dont like how this fits..." or "This is gonna get hot..."

Enjoy car. Do skidz. Do track events. Don't overcomplicate things. Don't chase other's results. Someone just made 413 KW On a 7163 (!!!) on a Golf R, which will make everyone sad at the traffic light grand prix. Someone out there will buy a new Huracan. Aim for fun, and what you want first then think of the simplest way to get there.

So hurr durr why didnt I just do that? Cause I had planned on changing the setup anyway, I wanted a much larger rear housing and a more flowy manifold which ruled out leaving things where they were. I had a GTX3076R on my car int he past, and it dropped/choked 150RWKW after 6k from peak power, so as I wanted less power, I needed to open up the rear end MASSIVELY and that's why I have the setup I have now.

2.8 and a flowed head is amazing for flow but it has to flow somewhere. Swapping to a GTX3076R was the same cost for me as going BW. I initially wanted to just go back to a GTX3076R with a larger rear housing, but doing it "properly" resulted in the BW being the same price once the GTX3582 was sold. Also someone please buy my GTX3582.


TLDR: Do as I say, not as I did, never ever do what Greg did.

 

Long essay lol

Still leaning down the BW path but will see. $2.5k for a GTX turbo or $3k for a BW EFR plus paying for fabrication to make it fit is all the same same to me. Headaches wont be a problem as id be just paying someone else to take on the problem :30_no_mouth:

Will wait and see how Pats Gen2 GTX drives, but if im gonna spend $$ on changing turbo setups i may as well go EFR. (Hey greg if you want to sell your setup..lol)

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28 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Hey man if you want you can have my entire car and/or everything in the engine bay. You know how much it costs as you know the guy who built it :P

What's the retail of an auto R34 sedan these days? How about $5k? :30_no_mouth:

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