Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

45 minutes ago, UNR33L said:

Better off putting 5k on Adelaide this weekend 

Was mucking around with Scorptec's custom build web app and came to a very awesome build with 5k. 1080ti SLI...

Also tried making the best PC I could within reason, using $2400 CPU etc. Came up around 10k...surprisingly cheap for the horsepower.

I'm tempted to up my gambling amounts but betting with overseas bookies is risky... Stupid government won't let me live bet online. But everyone else is allowed to piss their money away on the football at the touch of a button live because it's more popular than UFC. f**k off the sphincter of the universes

 

 

4 hours ago, TiTAN said:

Sli is such a waste of money. Nobody does much optimisation so you pay twice the money for 30% improved fps.

Yeah true, but that rings true for any flagship / top end product. That $2400 10 core i7 isn't twice as fast as the 8 core for half its price.

IMO the best balance between obsoletion and spending is the upper midrange. Last a good few years and allows an upgrade or two if necessary before another build. Or in my case make it last 10 years...

3 hours ago, UNR33L said:

Yeah SLI often causes more trouble that it's worth there's been numerous tests that shows stuttering etc 

Big single FTW, almost like a GTR I guess.

 

Two big singles...can you not remove the SLI bridge and run off one display adaptor most of the time, then connect them when needed?

That PC I put together had two 1080ti 11gb, so unless you're going Quattro / CAD rendering cards, it was pretty much the best gaming card you could get at the current time.

Two big singles...can you not remove the SLI bridge and run off one display adaptor most of the time, then connect them when needed?
That PC I put together had two 1080ti 11gb, so unless you're going Quattro / CAD rendering cards, it was pretty much the best gaming card you could get at the current time.


No. You just save the money you would have spent on the 2nd card and buy a new top of the line one to replace your current card after a few years.

Braided E85 fuel lines in

I think the standard 23 year old ones did well to last 5 years on the stuff, but when it starts dripping fuel on your garage floor and you notice elevated levels of euphoria whilst driving it's probably time to do things properly

  • Like 1
Braided E85 fuel lines in
I think the standard 23 year old ones did well to last 5 years on the stuff, but when it starts dripping fuel on your garage floor and you notice elevated levels of euphoria whilst driving it's probably time to do things properly


5 years? That's decent run considering the amount of propaganda associated with e85 when it first came on market.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...