Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought this with plans of swapping over the parts to my Phase 2 Clio. However, after cleaning it up and having a good look over it, I've realised it's a really good example of a somewhat rare car, with quality mods.

I'm now faced with the dilemma...
Do I keep this car and sell my ph2?
Do I sell this and keep my ph2?
Do i sell both and buy a newer Clio.... or something else)?

For now I'm going to advertise both my Clio's, and just see what happens! I'm also going to start working towards getting this Clio on the road. (see other ad here)

I'd be interested in a trade/swap for a Clio 197/200, Integra Type R, R26, RX8, Silvia/200sx, Evo, etc. I could possibly add a few grand towards the right trade.

Year: 2001
Make: Renault Sport
Model: Clio Cup 172 (Phase 1 - 60/85)
Km's: 189000
Price:
$4000 with standard Ph2 172 suspension and rotors, no strut brace, press-bent mild steel exhaust, and pod filter

OR

$5000 as is.
Registration: No
Location: Ballarat,VIC
Contact:Please call or message 0431320142

Engine and Exhaust
-Renault Sport 2.0L F4R (124kw in standard form)
-K-tec 2.5" stainless steel, cat-back, recessed exhaust
-BMC Carbon Dynamic Airbox

Driveline
-Standard JC5 5 speed with short-shift kit

Suspension and Brakes
-H & R Coilovers height adjustable coilovers (recent refurbish, rear dampers replaced with Koni "yellows" Sports)
-Sparco (or OMP?) adjustable front strut brace
-Black Diamond slotted/drilled front rotors with BD Predator pads
-Standard rear rotors and pads

Wheels and Tyres
-Factory OZ F1 15" alloys with Toyo T1R tyres

Exterior and Interior
-Standard Body and paint
-Pioneer headunit with Rockford Fosgate speakers.
-All wiring there for amp, sub, etc. Custom parcel shelf ready for 6x9's

Other info
-Body and Interior in pretty good condition.... probably 7/10
-Engine and gearbox feel very strong
-Timing belt changed in 02/11 at 145000kms
-Oil and Filter changed at 188000
-Fuel gauge is faulty (trip display reads km's to empty correctly though)
-Leather on steering wheel rough (has quality wheel cover on at the moment)
-Airbag light is on (probably a loose connection somewhere)
-Windscreen washers aren't working (only just noticed...should be an easy fix)
-The rear beaver panel was recently straightened after a low speed collision. The rear is perfectly straight now, however a rubber looking body filler was used to tidy up where some creases were in the spare tyre well

4256cfaaefc95841958347eb99a657f7.jpg3f2e208c1cf897a0359996196acf51f5.jpg0c349d0f834f310ea302f3262fe23c2e.jpgcdba31eeda21de940210e8b6b32927e1.jpgc36d027e10c31118efe7acc20bcaac7a.jpg8624ff4fe07af6742402a9676b693ebb.jpg43663d5a4225caee19716bec623cf460.jpgb82559ad17953630fad9cd3ad4e971e3.jpgd6495630d001258659414901b13cf58d.jpg664428b34158a6c61416ad4ea6599622.jpg76a4e716293c69371e1ba99cd327981e.jpg

Edited by jimtron4000

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...