Jump to content
SAU Community

Hcr32 Intercooler

david69

By david69,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

As stated, you really can't.. you simply need the extra size to do it's job correctly

If you want a side mount your options are really limited to the R34 stock side mount but even then it's not that much of an upgrade, or the ARC sidemount which is said to be okay as an upgrade, and is able to handle a little extra boost but you'll find things getting hot if you push it too much, and with the cost of those you might as well purchase a front mount

Have you considered a turnflow style front mount cooler?

david69 Community Regular

david69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am going to Max the rb out with all the usual mods i already have a front mount running 15psi.wanted to eliminate 2 metres of piping.cant do a same side front mount due to having no room for piping.what about the water to air type.are they any good.cheers.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I am going to Max the rb out with all the usual mods i already have a front mount running 15psi.wanted to eliminate 2 metres of piping.cant do a same side front mount due to having no room for piping.what about the water to air type.are they any good.cheers.

All the other side mounts have the inlet and outlet wrong for an R32 so you would have to take them off and re-weld them. The 2m of piping won't be doing your performance any harm but for tidiness a return flow would do the job. And yes water to air coolers work fine but a lot of money for no real gain.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

I am going to Max the rb out with all the usual mods i already have a front mount running 15psi.wanted to eliminate 2 metres of piping.cant do a same side front mount due to having no room for piping.what about the water to air type.are they any good.cheers.

What's your definition of max out?

Matvei27 Community Regular

Matvei27

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have both the ARC and Trust/Greddy SMIC units (the larger ones...they also made smaller ones but they're a similar size to the R34 GT-T unit and therefore are a waste of time these days). The ARC unit is slightly larger than the Trust one.

However, the ARC unit re-uses the stock plastic duct thing whereas the Trust one comes with its own metal air guide. Whether or not this has any difference on performance is hard to say. I would guess that the best setup would be the ARC unit with some custom ducting instead.

R32 GTS-t

Length: 205mm Height: 190mm Width: 60mm Volume: 2337cm^3
R34 GT-T
Length: 205mm Height: 220mm Width: 80mm Volume: 3608cm^3

Trust/Greddy:

Length 240mm Height: 193mm Width: 103mm Volume: 4771cm^3

ARC

Length: 240mm Height: 200mm Width: 108mm Volume: 5184cm^3

Anyway...as to how they perform...well it really depends on what gas you are using. A lot of the people on here get bad results with them because they are using 98RON pump gas. These things were made for the Japanese market and on the assumption that you would be putting in 100RON or better gas. I know people in Japan who have used the ARC SMIC with a HKS 2530, made 200~220rwkw, and had zero problems with detonation/pinging or heat. In fact, HKS' own demo cars for the 2530 (HCR32) and 2535 (ECR33) back in the day used SMICs.

YMMV. But if you want to try it, here is an ARC one on YAJ:

http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w122908114

If you don't have access to 100+ RON gas but still want to make 200~220rwkw...then it would be better/easier to use a FMIC so you have more efficient cooling (and therefore detonation prevention) to make up for the lack of fuel quality.

If you do have 100+ RON fuel and you only want to make 200~220rwkw...then there is no reason why you couldn't use one of these. My friends in Japan were able to do this without a water spray kit, but I imagine in hot climates especially it wouldn't hurt to put one on. Cusco/Pivot used to sell one, but it's discontinued. You can make your own and buy the controller someone posted above. The Cusco/Pivot one is nice though because it comes with a perfect spray nozzle that really gives you a fine atomized spray over the IC. If anything I would see if you can find the nozzle and ignore the controller since it isn't as smart as the one posted above.

Edited by Matvei27

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • PLYNX
      BCNR33/ECR33 Door corner piece replacement

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • BourneToLive
      R32 GTR Park lights issue

      By BourneToLive · Posted

      So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • Duncan
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By Duncan · Posted

      not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • Duncan
      BCNR33/ECR33 Door corner piece replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...