Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm starting to put plans together to up the power in my R33 gtst. It has/will have a bunch or normal mods - bigger turbo, FMIC, boost controller, full exhaust, nismo fuel pump, Power FC etc.

The thing Im unsure about is that of fuel injectors. I had planned to go Nismo 555 as a step up from standard. I'm not planning to chase high power with my car, I'm just planning to make the most of my mods and get it tuned so its comfortable and reliable as my daily, but still has the power that these mods allow. That said, I'm wondering what life would be like getting the next size up injectors; 740s?

What's the difference in Nismo 555 vs 740?

For standard fitment, are they side or top feed?

and

Is a fuel pressure regulator something I would need in my modifications too, or is it unnecessary?

740cc man, 555cc you'll run out of injector very quickly.

I'm running 875cc stainless steel top feeds and at 343kW I'm already sitting at 87% duty.

Go top feed man, if you use half height injectors they will fit underneath the stock plenum easily without any silly spacers ot deleting hoses like other homo kits.

The difference is 185cc.

555 would be fine for up to 350kw ...I bought 550 Deatschwerks but today I would buy something more modern like a set of ID750s from Scotty. Get in touch with him and he will give you a good steer.

Get a more modern ECU if you can afford it too - otherwise Power FC will be fine.

For the price of nismos you can get conplete kit with everything you need to fit top feeds into r33 its what i just did 1000cc xpurts 40mm length ,rail,aeroflow reg,fittings,hose all off Scott.

Not a big fan of the 740cc side feeds, we have tuned heaps of both the 555's and the 740's and the 740cc injectors never tune up anywhere near as nice, they don't idle as well, and the cruise isn't as nice.....WOT is no different but the rest is.

If it was me and needed anything bigger than the 555's I would be doing a top feed setup with Bosch 1000's

I've tuned with the 740s before on a SR20 but not on a RB and didn't have real issues.. but taking note that per cylinder a SR uses more fuel than a RB hence idle/cruise might have been better as it required a higher duty cycle

  • 4 weeks later...

Take the majority advice dude, ditch the Power FC and go for something a little more modern(adaptronic, haltech), go with the bigger injector. I use 740cc Nismo injectors which are great. I've also used the 555cc nismo injectors. I had no issues with either car idling with my Power FC. My 740cc crack about 60% injector duty cycle so I have headroom for E85 but I will be cutting it OH SO CLOSE.

If you're gonna do it, plan it properly and do it right. I started modding my car years ago. Injectors have really come down in price and there are some more options for ECU's. The real pro's of a modern ECU are you can add inputs for mafless setups, flex fuel, other sensors etc. The pfc is a brilliant ecu but its outdated. A larger resolution can also give a tune far more detail and it can make the car feel just that much smoother.

If I was building my car today from scratch, none of the parts I have in there now would be used. They're good for their time and back then more affordable than what is available now. I also was lucky, I picked up my nismo injectors pretty damn cheap. Even cheap for todays prices. They've got up since I bought them.

With that said, I love my car :D

Edited by SargeRX8

FYI;

Nismo 555's are Side feed, and drop in to your standard rail. yes you will need a reg, anytime you change your fuel system from stock, as you will need to re-calibrate the pressure. ID1000 or EV14 injectors are top feed and require custom rail/collars.

sounds to me your pretty much doing teh same thing i did, on my first round of mods, with a very similar parts list. in which i have my old pfc and tomei z32 for sale atm, which got me up and over 500rwhp.

as for the comment about the 1000's being cheaper, not true. sure the injector itself is but its all the other shit u gotta change that adds in the price, and will ultimately cost you more. the nismos drop into the stock rail/lines etc job done. the bosche 1000's need a rail, collars, custom sleeves machined, .. then lines, and fittings and a decent return.. and u still need a reg either way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...