Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you want anyone to put effort in then maybe you should consider putting some effort in.

How about we start with your car.

What 33 is it?

What has been done to it?

What have you touched recently?

When does it blow?

What else is happening?

See where I am getting at......

Ok

R33 s2 gtst

Mods turbo back exhaust

Fmic

Hi flowed turbo running 14psi

550cc injectors and nistune z32 computer.

Nothing has been done to the car for the last 6 months drove fine still went hard. This morning started the car this morning and let it warm up then started to drive to work got less then 1km away for home and it just stopped. Checked the fuses and found one to be blowen replace it and now when i turn the ignition on it blows straight away.

Have pulled ecu out, doesn't smell burnt pulled, cover off and looks ok on inside and is dry. Have swapped ecu to std unit to check but still blew the when ignition turned on. Have bypassed fuel pump relay to test pump and pumps works fine. Checked fuse block with multimeter found that the fuse is shorted to earth (where earthed is don't know). Been looking for wiring diagrams to help but have found anything yet.

Is it fuse 8 (10A)?

If so it powers and signals the ECCS relay then feeds power directly to the ECU as well as the AFM and CAS by the looks of it. Try unplugging the ECCS relay for a start (because a power feed for the ECU tees off between the relay and the fuse) then unplug AFM and CAS and see what happens. Then plug them in one at a time and see if one blows the fuse. Other then that it will be a wire shorted to ground or faulty ECU (which you have already tried to eliminate anyway)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...