Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey. There was a person at the auto salons that Supercharged his Skyline. Its a waste of money. He spend soo much money putting in a supercharger and got the power of a stock Gts-t (140Kw). Might as well just buy a stock GTs-t, will be quicker and cheaper.

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-932999
Share on other sites

As a very general rule of thumb, supercharging is good for down low, but useless up high (and turbos are the reverse).

Basically there is no particularly good reason to supercharge a Skyline, in fact many would argue its an inferior technology (including the man who designed the supercharged-6 used in Holden's Commodore).

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-933039
Share on other sites

Before making your mind up read these threads:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ht=supercharger

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=44169

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...ghlight=rb30esc

Look for warpspeed's posts, he has some opinions and (more importantly) experiences that are vastly different to those expressed above.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-933172
Share on other sites

from what I have seen and read the older type of blowers on the old V8s and stuff, the roots and screw type are pretty inefficient. But the the more modern centrifigal type ( vortech ) are a lot lot better in design. Very similar to a turbo in fact. They drain a lot less from the crank to operate as well.

As an example my friend supercharged his 3.2l V6 rodeo. When stock it had 76rwkw. They strapped a vortech V1-s trim @ 10psi to it. It hit 200rwkw at 6500rpm and the curve was still climbing hard but they backed off because the engine would have let go if revved any harder. This gave him incentive to do a full engine rebuild. He upgraded to the T-Trim and its now making 385rwkw @ 25psi and they havent sorted out a few little gremlins that are keeping it from 400. The drivers and the cars maiden 400m pass yielded an 11.9 sec pass on slicks that had not been warmed up properley.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-935253
Share on other sites

i went to a place near me to get a quote on supercharging my r33 gts, for a custom setup including front mount and all the shit they wanted $12,000 Hahahahahaha

he said it would have made 200 rwkw (currently 107rwkw)

but that isnt an option as selling my car plus that 12 grand (so all up about $24-26,000)

that would get me a besat of a gts-t.

before i went in there i thaught that it would cost like 5-6000 to do it.

James.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-935486
Share on other sites

Chris,

300rwkw isn't cheap.

Unless most or some of the mods are already there to support it.

To get 300rwkw in a GTST from dead stock you are looking at a minimum of $7000-8000.

Because I've built another motor its more in the vicinity of almost 15k. :rofl:

But ahh well its all for my enjoyment.

When My other half says 'Your not going to get your money back'

I say.. 'I'm not doing it to get my money back.'

----

I looked in to it for my VS 5ltr Commodore before I sold it.

It was going to cost around 7-8k to get only just over 200rwkw.

I was told that to get more power from there I was going to have to start opening up the engine + a different trim etc.

It is expensive to do it properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-936818
Share on other sites

Also, considering supercharged skylines arn't exactly common, the workshop would pretty much need to do all R&D work as well.

There is a big difference in labour between fitting bolt on parts and having stuff custom built for an uncommon application.

Also, depending on what was included in the $12k it might not be that bad (think management & tuning, exhaust, IC, labour etc).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-936890
Share on other sites

Given a choice of spending $3000 or more on the car, why not go for the tried end proven method. I know that for that muchmoney I can get a stock GTSt to 250ish rwkw, but when it comes to superchargers its a lot more of an unknown.

There is nothing wrong with walking the less troden path, but be prepared to pay the $

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45882-superchargers/#findComment-938514
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...