Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys iv decide to seperate my gear

everything has just come off in perfect working order and current setup made 380kws

turbo are in good condition with no more shaft play then my brand new gtx35

gt2860-5s x2$1500
come with braided lines and fittings
700cc sard injectors $450
custom 3" dump pipes $350
with good condition 02 sensors
z32 afm x2 with 3" intake pipes $420
power fc and hand controller $700
i forgot to take pics of injectors and power fc txt me if u require pics...
i will post at buyers expense.
im located in officer vic 3809 im not on here very often so send me a txt 0497630996

post-16324-0-65906600-1439101477_thumb.jpg

post-16324-0-12959100-1439101478_thumb.jpg

post-16324-0-68005000-1439101478_thumb.jpg

post-16324-0-13288200-1439101479_thumb.jpg

post-16324-0-66337100-1439101479_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458879-rb26dett-aftermarket-gear/
Share on other sites

gt2860-5s x2$1300

come with braided lines and fittings

700cc sard injectors $450

custom 3" dump pipes $300

with good condition 02 sensors

z32 afm x2 with 3" intake pipes $400

power fc and hand controller $650

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...