Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont know if anyone has thought of this or has actually carried out this modification.

Want my tuner recommends is that i put a low fuel level switch in my surge tank in case the lift pump decides to kick the bucket.

The sensor would be tapped in about half way up the tank and would be wired into a light on the dash to indicate if fuel was starting to get low and therefore potentially saving an engine. Yes i understand that i can get a Air/fuel gauge or a low fuel pressure light but thats more for the pumps inside the tank that feed the rail.

Does this seem like a reasonable idea and if not why?

Also trying to figure out what sensor to use? would a low coolant sensor register petrol and/or E85?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458932-surge-tank-low-fuel-level-switch/
Share on other sites

Hmm I was going to suggest a mercury tilt switch but it would require some room in the surge tank. What about a flow meter on the line from the lift pump to the surge tank? Or a pressure switch (similar to an oil pressure warning light or maybe even an actual oil pressure warning light) installed in a T off the feed line.

  On 11/08/2015 at 10:13 AM, GTR_JOEY said:

my memory may be a bit fuzzy but doesnt that switch kick in when the float sinks too low?

I need something i can tap into the side of the tank as inside the tank is already full of pumps :D

It's a seperate thing. I think it's what you want.

Google "low fuel annunciator", its the same thing as used on aircraft.

Also been looking into it for my surge tank setup.

My way of thinking was to wire it into the Haltec as a engine safe guard, should react faster than you pulling off the throttle, that is if you see the light of course.....

Many factory fuel pump cradles have a separate low fuel sensor fitted, i have not had time to work out which one id be using yet.

Edited by GTRPSI
  On 11/08/2015 at 10:21 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Hmm I was going to suggest a mercury tilt switch but it would require some room in the surge tank. What about a flow meter on the line from the lift pump to the surge tank? Or a pressure switch (similar to an oil pressure warning light or maybe even an actual oil pressure warning light) installed in a T off the feed line.

The flow meter would work well, not sure how the pressure switch would work as the pump isn't really producing much/ if any pressure as far as I can tell.

Ben I'm trying to imagine how it would all work in terms of wiring and mounting up the sensor. The unit is obviously sealed so everything that runs in and out of the tank needs to be easily sealed back up to prevent leaks.

Here's the tank to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with

post-47556-0-43767900-1439289951_thumb.jpgpost-47556-0-51087300-1439289970_thumb.jpg

Look at the 2 links below...

http://www.aeu86.org/forum/showthread.php?pid=151308

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=low+fuel+light+thermistor&biw=1920&bih=920&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCQQsARqFQoTCMC-1_vsoMcCFYfNgAodMoEMUQ

You would simply need to mount it with a hose clamp to the height you want it at, somewhere along the cradle shaft into the surge tank on on a pump if its in there.

Hey guys, thanks for the replies

Ill have to ask the tuner about an engine cut off, ill probably just position it somewhere in my eye line to keep things simple.

I've managed to get a 3 pin digital sensor that is used on generator fuel tanks. Once I hook it all up ill report back

Its easy to organise an engine cut off but you are better off without it as depending on how far up (or down) the catch can you put the sensor you should easily have enough fuel to get back to the pits rather than get stranded out on the track.

  On 11/08/2015 at 10:21 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

Hmm I was going to suggest a mercury tilt switch but it would require some room in the surge tank. What about a flow meter on the line from the lift pump to the surge tank? Or a pressure switch (similar to an oil pressure warning light or maybe even an actual oil pressure warning light) installed in a T off the feed line.

You forgot a simple flow switch.

Thats what id be using on the line into the tank.

Joey, If you're worried every time your ~5l tank uses 2.5l you might as well have a 3l tank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How f**ked am i? what would happen if i leave the magnet inside there? 
    • I'll update you guys when i get home from work, im going to try to fish it out.  I just realized that i can't even drop the oil pan. The whole front diff and axles are connected to the oil pan... is it even possible to drop the oil pan without taking out the motor?  
    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
×
×
  • Create New...