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Rb26 Rebuild

Stoney85

By Stoney85,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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macautomotive Enthusiast

macautomotive

Posted
Posted

Its 101 building never add any coolant just plain water for the first 1000 km it allows time for head gasket to seal and if you have a water leak you havent wasted any coolant, win win. Also NEVER use any copper coat or any other sealing compounds etc on a head gasket they dont need it.

GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

Copper coat as In hylomar spray?

Copper coat is a copper spray.

Hylomar gasket spray is different sealant that's not made of copper.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=hylomar+copper+coat&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=dIDhVciPE8aMNunhuegJ#q=copper+coat+spray

Ive used copper coat on a few engines, all had block deck orings and copper head gaskets, spray on, wait till tacky then install.

The correct deck and head finish should not need any spray with a MLS head gasket.

Stoney85 Collaborator

Stoney85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the L series datto engine I built years ago, Baz from Datsport told me to run it dry till it got hot, to seal the head gasket.

Anyway, the engine is in, all plugged in and ready to go.

Guess what I dont have! Oil Pressure!! FML

I primed the oil pump prior to putting it in, even with the motor assembled and the sump off, upside down on the stand I bled the pump by cranking the motor by hand with a funnel full of oil in the pickup point (before fitting the pickup strainer) and had oil coming ot of everywhere.

So, I've got the plugs out, and cranking with nothing, no oil out the turbo drain, tried a few different things even removing the filter and putting a hose onto the oil pumps pressure side and reverse rotating the motor to suck oil into the pump, not much luck there, it sucks it in, but i then out of curiosity, crank the motor and it just pumps a little oil then nothing.

Over filled the sump by a litre or so too, to see if that helped.

Fitted eveything up, and started the car to see if some load would help, nothing after 10 seconds so turned it off (was happy that it fired first go though)

Still doing some research as to any other ways to get oil pressure, but I've never had this problem before, leaving it for today and coming back with a fresh mind and plan of attack.

Everything has been smooth sailing until now.

I really dont want to have to pull the motor again, (can I swear now?!?!?!?!)

GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

If its fitted in the car, buy a cheap oil filter, fit it snugly but not tight, mark where the top is and remove it.

Then cut open a hole in the top of it and remove its guts, make sure you wash it good before refitting it.

Remove your spark plugs, fill it with oil through the hole, start slowly rotating your engine backwards while topping it up........

Stoney85 Collaborator

Stoney85

Posted
  • Author
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I have the oil cooler/relocator setup, but double checked the hose layout, cant hurt to triple check it to make sure though.

Todays plan is to remove the cooler setup and just run a filter on the block to eliminate any external issues that might be caused.

I was doing as you mentioned yesterday but just from the cooler hose instead, the motor did suck in the oil through the pump, probably went through half a litre, then I rotated the motor forwards to see if it would fill the hose again and overflow (holding the hose upright) and all it did was fill it for about a turn of the crank then nothing, I guess i'll just keep trying this until I have bled any/all the air from the oil pump rotors.

Stoney85 Collaborator

Stoney85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got it sorted, bypassed the oil cooler setup, fitted an oil filter straight to the block, blocked off the sump breathers and pressurised the sump through the dipstick, turbo drain disconnected, and then cranked it over a few times, removed the oil filter and it had oil in it, refitted and kept going, and finally got oil out the turbo drain.

Reconnected everything, and happy days!!

Ran it to get it warm to seal the headgasket and check over everything, before refitting the radiator and filling it up. Reconnected everything inc bonnet and bumper.

Realised I hadn't connected the reverse wiring, crawled under to fit that and caused a spark from the wires somehow after pulling on the wires a bit and then realised I lost the starter motor from that, wont crank now, checked all fuses and all are good. At wits end yet again for another issue. Starting to quickly lose my hair over this car, everytime I get somewhere, another issue pops up.

My multimeter decided to get a flat battery then too, so I called it quits again for another day.

Should be an easy fix, only issue is the previous owner did a complete wire tuck of the engine bay and all the engine bay wiring/fuse/relay panel is jammed into the glove box.

Spoke to my tuner about his recommended run in procedure, just gathering info, and his opinion was to not let it idle for too long, and then get it onto the road, and without hitting much boost at all, bring it from 3000rpm to 5000rpm while trying to maintain close to 0 boost/vacuum on the gauge, then let it cruise down to under 3000rpm, drive around for a minute or two, then repeat that process about ten times, reasoning behind it, is to load the piston rings against the cylinder walls under the slight boost/load and the decell creates a vacuum and sucks oil into the rings to lube them.

Then after that, the rings are either bedded in or you will have oil control issues, then do a few hundred kms, change the oil with fresh penrite running in oil again and drive a bit more keeping it under 5000-6000rpm and 5psi.

I'm getting another wideband to interface with my ViPEC and to check that everything is fine, but will probably have to add a bit more fuel (~5%) to take into account the larger capacity motor (1mm oversize).

Then also decide if I want to up the boost from the tuned 17psi and have a second tune for 25psi or so.

GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

If your looking for a good wideband, look at the AEM fail safe one, ive just wired one up into one of our cars.

Its a wide band that connects to AEM's gauge that also shows boost. its a 2 in one gauge.

You can set up in the screen Via laptop for where you want Red, Orange and Green LED's to show up of A/F and they have a PC program you can run to set up at what A/R ratios you want alarms to go off at, the gauge can flash fast or slow and it has a out put alarm to trigger your ECU to pull timing (or whatever you need done when the alarm goes off).

Also has the usual outputs to run the wideband into the ECU and around 2 hours of logging.

GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

4.2 LSU

4.9 is being used by OEM manufacturers on car, the aftermarket wideband market is all using the 4.2 from what i saw.

I couldn't find any aftermarket setups running the 4.9 when i looked.

Key point is set it back as instructed and put a angle in to its fitting point to keep water out, its all in the instructions to get a long life out of it.

Stoney85 Collaborator

Stoney85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All the new innovate kits use the LSU 4.9, been told to make sure you dont get old stock which still use the 4.2.

I had tuned my car with the techedge LSU4.9, and from what i've been told, the 4.9 has a much faster response time, so I'd like to keep that.

Haha, how about that, the techedge is made in Coffs Harbour, 20mins down the road from me, might have to pay them a visit.

Missileman Veteran

Missileman

Posted
Posted

All the new innovate kits use the LSU 4.9, been told to make sure you dont get old stock which still use the 4.2.

I had tuned my car with the techedge LSU4.9, and from what i've been told, the 4.9 has a much faster response time, so I'd like to keep that.

Haha, how about that, the techedge is made in Coffs Harbour, 20mins down the road from me, might have to pay them a visit.

Hope you have a big wallet, they're friggin expensive.

Stoney85 Collaborator

Stoney85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, they're expensive, but so is an engine rebuild.

Not seeing much for under $300, and the techedge is $400 for the economy unit + gauge combo, I also like the fact that if they are local to me, aftermarket support I would hope would be good, and any warranty repairs, heaven forbid, would then be an easy solution.

The innvoate LC-2 is $300 and thats without the gauge, so add another $120, and looks to be on par with the techedge, if not better due to the fact thats its a main brand http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Air-Fuel-Ratio-Meter-Innovate-Motorsports-LC-2-Oxygen-Sensor-Part-3877-AFR-/111614664790?hash=item19fcc0a056

Whatever one I plan on getting, I want it to have the ability to send a signal to the ViPEC for on the road self tuning/monitoring, and I can set paramters/failsafes if the AFR's dont match the tunes, similar to the AEM failsafe but just using the ViPEC instead.

Plus I will most likely keep it when I sell the car.

Missileman Veteran

Missileman

Posted
Posted (edited)

I bought the 2CO and it came in at just under $500 without display!!!

Wish I'd ponnied up the extra $150 and got the 3A2 that has 4 thermocouple inputs, logging and built in USB port, but still no display.

Those prices on their website do not include GST, shipping or the serial to usb adapter you will need for the "cheap" units ;)

They really need to update the 3A2, you should be getting 8 thermo inputs for that price.

Edited by Missileman
macautomotive Enthusiast

macautomotive

Posted
Posted

They are 2 different things but do the same job. Most cylinder head machine shops will not warranty anything if you use either of these products on head gasket. In the old days was a different story but now you really only use these products on things like water pump gaskets etc

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