Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all I am a little baffled on what widths/lengths/bends I need to go stainless steel intake. I've recently bought a 90mm throttle body and waiting on a z32 afm and I'm new to piping, also is it better if I relocate for better air flow etc..

Edited by RebelR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458958-intake-piping/
Share on other sites

cold air intake and a modest free flowing exhaust and maybe a tune tidy up is about all you can do. Naturally aspirated will only ever breathe atmospheric pressure it doesn't matter how big the pipe is in diameter something has to draw it in or slam it into the motor for it to be effective and you have nothing..

You would get better results from weight reduction and better tires.

good luck

Edited by mr skidz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458958-intake-piping/#findComment-7586515
Share on other sites

Google:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155352-z32-afm-sizing/

you already know size of throttle body

Run 80mm from AFM and step up to TB or run 90mm from TB and step down to AFM..

it faces east to west so you'll need at least 45 or 135(?) degree elbow and straight piece and probably another elbow depending on filter location.

/thread

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458958-intake-piping/#findComment-7586677
Share on other sites

  On 13/08/2015 at 4:21 AM, RebelR33 said:

Really I appreciate all of the performance advice, but I'm just asking about my intake pipe.

The honest answer is:

Do not make an inake pipe.

Do not upgrade the throttle body

Do not change the AFM

If you've already done this, do nothing except replace with stock items and sell what you've already bought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458958-intake-piping/#findComment-7586732
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...