Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used aerfoflow hose, can't remember what series. And I did all my water/oil/fuel lines at the same time so I can't really remember.

If you were just to do the soft lines coming out of the fuel tank hat, and in the engine bay I don't think it would be more than $100

Little value in going E85 with std RB25 turbo. E85 is great at allowing you to wind boost into an engine and you are capped at 12-14 psi

Given the expense of going to E85 a HKS 2530 on 98 will be you better results

not entirely correct, you're still able to run loads of timing around the middle of the rpm range without any knock and a few more degrees up top

Meh... It made my car a smidgen laggier but did allow way more ignition. But takes a better calibrated bump than mine to pick that up in back to back driving through the mid range.

But only really made more power as the engine was no longer boost and ignition sensitive so could wind both in.

With a std turbo it will be bye bye exhaust wheel. Though with lower exhaust temp maybe you can run 15-16psi...who knows

No problems with the M35 ceramic turbine, I bumped mine up to 19-20psi on ethanol, for 5 months in between Garrett GTX's. Perhaps the ceramic is glued better on the Stagea? They run 14psi stock.

It was a low K turbo so I suspect it's old age or heat cycles that kills ceramic turbos more than boost or shaft speed. Anyway it's not hard to shove a small highflow core inside it.

In addition if I were to get a upgraded turbo I'd need injectors and a nistune anyway so the only extra expense I'm seeing at this stage is fuel lines, rb25 highflows are quite cheap second-hand and plenty of them around however most say they are too laggy for an rb20

They run 14psi stock.

There's your answer. RB20/25/26 turbos were spec'd to run at 7-10 psi. So they would have been running at a certain shaft speed to achieve that. Try to make 14 psi and they have to go a lot faster. The M35, if standard is 14 psi, will be doing the same sort of sensible speed as the older ones at their standard boost. Wind it up to 19 psi and now you're probably approaching the same sort of speeds that limited the older turbos - just at a higher boost.

It's kind of like how you could get away with running a 25 turbo on a 20 at higher boost levels with less risk of it dying - because it wasn't having to spin quite so fast to make the boost on the smaller engine.

Well my car is about ready to be all put back together and get back on the road. Will be interesting to see how this weekends inspection of tank, lines and filters goes since it has been laying around with E85 in it for 12 months.

I mention that as my car has nothing done to it all to make it E85 compatible. Just 1000cc injectors and in tank pump with Nismo reg. Ran fine like that for 2 years but was driven every 2nd or so day with a tank a week

I've heard stories of the e85 gradually breaking down the stock rubber hoses leading to gunky buildup in the injectors/fuel filter, and as in your case people have left them untouched and it's been fine, honestly if it's a cheap and simple thing to do I don't see a reason not to

Here's an idea, just run whatever boost you run on 98RON safely, then on E85 run the same amount - however just pump in loads and loads of timing till the motor/turbo combination stops making power and back a couple if degrees.

At the end of the day, it's going to still make more power than 98RON, not a totally pointless exercise.

For reference, I tuned my mate's S15 and it made 197kW on 98RON.. when we moved it over to E85 it made 215kW - however it made heaps more mid range power as I was able to pump in heaps of timing into the notorious SR20 timing hole where max torque is achieved.

LOL...Ive actually been following my own advice and I'm up to P14 of the RB20 turbo thread and god dam, kudos have the that HKS on special for 3.14K...http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/hks-turbocharger-kit-hks-gtrs-11004an008-nissan-skyline-r32-gtst-gts4-r33-gts25t-r34-25gtt-p-1048.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...