Jump to content
SAU Community

How Rare Are R33s/r34s In Queensland?

whiskybrah

By whiskybrah,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

whiskybrah Rookie

whiskybrah

Posted
Posted (edited)

I live on the gold coast and have only seen an one R34 the 5 years I've been living here. I've also been searching to buy an R34 within this region for a reasonable price but there are rarely any decent condition ones for sale. All the immaculate ones I see are in Melbourne.

Edited by whiskybrah
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459052-how-rare-are-r33sr34s-in-queensland/
Share on other sites
Cadmoon Grand Master

Cadmoon

Posted
Posted

33 are common as mud in Brisbane, 34 are not as common but by no means rare. They're 13-20 year old cars now and most have been bought by young kids that didn't maintain them and thus they become flogged out. It's very hard to find a good condition 33 and a bit easier but still hard to find a nice 34. The only advice I can give is to keep looking.

whiskybrah Rookie

whiskybrah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, I've been looking for the past 8 or so months now, of course you get a great one popping up every now and again but I guess its just me becoming impatient, as the last offer I tried to follow up sold within the first 10 minutes of being put on carsales, lol.

Cadmoon Grand Master

Cadmoon

Posted
Posted

If you're going to Sydney to look at a car I'd take someone who knows what to look for with you. The pressure will be on to buy it there and then so you have a way home but you should be prepared to walk away and catch a plane home again.

  • Like 1
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

I did the interstate trip when looking for an R33, car was nothing like the pics and was a dissapointment but live and learn i guess, be prepared for alot of bullshit artists and test drive some cars with good power to compare ...

  • Like 1
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Cant you go to an import dealer in Brisbane? Look at some skylines fresh from Japan. Im the first Aus owner of my R33, bought it stock as a rock and it was clean as bar some damage to the dash (think the previous owner had something mounted there)

It cost me a little more then going for a private sale but i did end up with Warranty and probably a much better looked after car

jake26 Rising Star

jake26

Posted
Posted

Hey mate, I was searching for a clean 34 GTT on the Goldy and surrounding areas for a few months and, ended up travelling down to VIC to pick mine up.

As for spotting wise, they're out there, I see a handful every couple of weeks but 33's are more common that's for sure.

  • 2 weeks later...
t5iv Grand Master

t5iv

Posted
Posted

If you're looking at cars in Sydney or Melbourne, hit up one of the guys from SAU NSW or VIC. They will be able to point you in the direction of somewhere reputable that can do mechanical checks etc and may even know of the car in question. Book a return flight on your first trip down and try and see a couple of cars. That way, the pressure to purchase then and there isn't on. Head back down to drive it up after placing a deposit. Mate sold his BNR34 to a guy in Sydney and that's what they did.

  • 2 weeks later...
IKARA Explorer

IKARA

Posted
Posted

Hi have an R33 available, still in good nick, I am just in northern suburbs of Brisbane, You are welcome to come and check it out, take a test drive also, no Obligation.

Call Scott 0410091018 to arrange a time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...