Rb27/ Rb28 Vs Staying Rb26

[Anfanee]

I'll throw a spanner in the mix for Piggaz and other diff lovers...

If you are aiming for a sub 400kw car, do you:

A, Spend the kesh Stroking it

B, Do the diffs

Having been in all i know what one i would choose

[breaker1845]

I'll throw a spanner in the mix for Piggaz and other diff lovers...

If you are aiming for a sub 400kw car, do you:

A, Spend the kesh Stroking it

B, Do the diffs

Having been in all i know what one i would choose

Or do both A and B and enjoy a street weapon.

For Cutty,

I've got a 2.6L currently and still enjoy the motor with HKS GT-SS turbos. It revs freely and produces the power/response I want currently.

When I go down the upgrade path like you are I will definitely be increasing my displacement for many positive reasons. The main reasons being I'll have more power down low which is what I like in my cars to get it moving quicker and response as I want my power usable while driving on the street.

I value having a license so not having to rev to 7k+ to get a kick is always a benefit.

If you see Piggaz's graphs and results from his 2.8L compared to a 2.6L you will see why everyone agrees to go in that direction.

You aren't shooting the sky for high numbers but an enjoyable and fun street car, which the 2.6 can deliver and so can the 2.8. But if you look at the 2.8 vs 2.6 graph you can see how different the cars run and you can enjoy that early response/power compared to waiting longer if that is what you fancy, while keeping the motor at safe levels for reliability.

In summary, both will get you what you want, a forged 2.6L or a stroked 2.8L. You can run both safely for the street and get the performance you are chasing. The 2.8 has the benefit of coming on earlier which is something I particularly like. The forged 2.6 has it benefits too but you'll lack that extra displacement which most people here recommend.

Anthony also mentioned diffs, something to consider in your build after engine choice as they make a huge difference.

[Anfanee]

Again like i said,

OP get back to us on what power you want. Personally anything over 400kw and it's worth going a stroker kit to liven the thing up.

But below that, you sort of get to the point of spending money just because you can, not because you need to.

Piggaz is lurking, waiting for comment on diffs.

He is probably at a life crossroads. Hardest decision in life.

[Piggaz]

I'll throw a spanner in the mix for Piggaz and other diff lovers...

If you are aiming for a sub 400kw car, do you:

A, Spend the kesh Stroking it

B, Do the diffs

Having been in all i know what one i would choose

And have it spinning off its head on the freeway? No thanks. Maybe a Getrag box with the 4.11's.

As I said earlier, if I had to run a 2.6L I would sell the car. It's personal preference, no question about that.

My car as it sits in its current tune I can belt up a hill and sit it between 4300 and have no reason to turn it harder than 6 - 6500 rpm. Sure I can go to 8000 RPM but there is absolutely no need.

I just don't understand why someone would go "right, I'm going to build an engine" and buy rods, pistons, potentially a new stock crank, pay for machining and assembly, head service, gaskets , blah blah blah and not spend an extra $1000 or 2 and not build a stroker. Apart from an extra compression ratio increase and little bit of head work that you may do at the time it will drive pretty much exactly the same OFF BOOST as a stock engine. Not sure how you could argue it would drive any different. Forged pistons and rods don't make the power, they're a supporting mod.

2.6's can make the power no question about that. However, the GTR is a big, heavy car with no funky valve control, relatively tall ratios in the 32 and 33, lowish compression by today's standards. As a road car with larger turbos they really are a dumb choice.

If you're happy with a setup that you have to turn harder to get the same result, that's great, but to build one is crazy. Look at what's Fatz is doing with stockers. That's thrashing the ass off it on the track with a 6262 making over 400 KW. If you go through his build thread he was chasing more midrange punch, that's why he went the single route. That's even in a track car. "Just rev it, go down another gear", rubbish.

[Piggaz]

Piggaz is lurking, waiting for comment on diffs.

He is probably at a life crossroads. Hardest decision in life.

No hard decision in it at all. .

[Anfanee]

Just quietly i don't know where this revving thing came from...Again it's all relative to power. I don't need to rev above 6k either.... Hell i can't think of any reason you would need to on a street! The car in it's stock form does 0-100 in under 5 seconds. Before i even know it i'm over the speed limit.

I drove up black mountain (Canberrans will know it well) a few months ago in the R and was sitting at 3600RPM and had the time of my life. The car is really at its best going up a hill.

Again for my Turbos, i chose not to bother with the stroker. And never regretted it.

I'm not bashing strokers or anything like that, i'm well aware of what amazing things they can achieve. They really can bring a boring car back into life. I'm just trying to offer my experience from my power level, and from my experience, the GTR doesn't really need much more life in it.

power level?

Usage? Street or Track?

Budget?

Driving style?

Sooo many things to take into account.

I went:

1. 300km aim (made 320)

2. 100% street, will never touch a track in this GTR...

3. Budget for me is pretty much not existent. If i want something ill get it.

4. I like corners. And Roundabouts. Don't get much of a choice in Canberra on that second one.

Granted for most people a stroker will probably improve what you want, but i decided it was not worth the money in my case. And i know i'm not the only one to fall under this category.

Just my 2c ignore it of you like.

[Ants]

I'll throw a spanner in the mix for Piggaz and other diff lovers...

If you are aiming for a sub 400kw car, do you:

A, Spend the kesh Stroking it

B, Do the diffs

Having been in all i know what one i would choose

or C, do the gearbox

[Anfanee]

or C, do the gearbox

yeah i need to do mine rofl

[Trex]

yeah i need to do mine rofl

Give your one to a stagea owner.

[Anfanee]

Give your one to a stagea owner.

NTY

[XGTRX]

I have always said that you need to experience as many set ups as you can to make a decision. Not dyno graphs, not opinion, and not anything else. People need to experience it. Its not hard, as I am sure most of the guys on this forum would be glad to take someone who is serious for a drive at a meet, get together or when convenient.

Some people prefer low down response, some people like the opposite. Who gives a crap, but the only way to know what someone likes is to experience the setups and not rely on the inaccurate fanboy dribble and bullshit propaganda that keeps getting posted.

At the end of the day the difference between a 26 and a 28 is about 500 rpm down low . Is that enough to sway someone to go a stroker? The answer is that it depends on what you like, go for a drive in both.

As for the stock 26 vs forged 26 vs 28 dyno graphs, well just look in the section where there are a bunch of 98 and e85 setups you can compare but most of them are consistent with what I already mentioned.

As for driving a stock 26 vs a forged 26 tuned to their comfortable limits, there is no comparison as they are worlds apart in performance and driving experience, but don't take anyone's word for it, just go for a drive in both and experience it yourself.

Also as for having the rev and dump and keep the rpm high just for daily duties, well this is just wrong. Either people had terrible setups or people are just delusional and want to trash talk just to justify their own choices. Everyone talks as if with a -5 setup that there is nothing until over 4000 rpm which is just rubbish. I drive mine daily and it hardly sees more than 4000 but is on 10 psi or so for most of its time but get it close to 4000 and she comes on song very aggressively even at part throttle. Sure I can't pull as efficiently from 3000 rpm at wot but hey a gear change will fix that and I am happy to deal with it, not that I find it as a negative anyway.

But then again based on the passengers I have had in my car and the hand full of people I have let drive my car, they have never said anything about lack of response or lag, but rather how nice it is to drive in normal traffic and how aggressively to comes on when you want it to. And most of these guys have got high powered vls and ford turbos so they are more than qualified to make honest judgements.

But each to there own, people just have to find the setup that suits them first hand in the real world.

Edited August 24, 2015 by XGTRX

[Hadouken]

Has anyone ever stroked it and stayed with -9's? That would be interesting in regards to response and how it noses over.

[Count Grantleyish]

Has anyone ever stroked it and stayed with -9's? That would be interesting in regards to response and how it noses over.

I think there was someone up in Queensland that did this, was on a 34 GTR that was for sale many months ago.

And I believe a chap in the UK has done this.

[Piggaz]

Has anyone ever stroked it and stayed with -9's? That would be interesting in regards to response and how it noses over.

Blitz did a HKS step Zero with -9's. ill try find the graph when I get home.

[Hadouken]

much appreciated, sorry to go off topic op.

[sydking]

Love my -9's (HKS GTSS ) for the street

PLENTY of repsonive power on the Rb26 when running 25psi.

Anything more for street duties its just silly really. Would be very hard to keep your lisence

gt ss perfect for the twisties and good get up and go. Very responsive.

Forged Rb26 will last me a few years till i get bored

[Hadouken]

So it seems they used 2530's on their zero.

[ibrox90]

Just quietly i don't know where this revving thing came from...Again it's all relative to power. I don't need to rev above 6k either.... Hell i can't think of any reason you would need to on a street! The car in it's stock form does 0-100 in under 5 seconds. Before i even know it i'm over the speed limit.

I drove up black mountain (Canberrans will know it well) a few months ago in the R and was sitting at 3600RPM and had the time of my life. The car is really at its best going up a hill.

Again for my Turbos, i chose not to bother with the stroker. And never regretted it.

I'm not bashing strokers or anything like that, i'm well aware of what amazing things they can achieve. They really can bring a boring car back into life. I'm just trying to offer my experience from my power level, and from my experience, the GTR doesn't really need much more life in it.

power level?

Usage? Street or Track?

Budget?

Driving style?

Sooo many things to take into account.

I went:

1. 300km aim (made 320)

2. 100% street, will never touch a track in this GTR...

3. Budget for me is pretty much not existent. If i want something ill get it.

4. I like corners. And Roundabouts. Don't get much of a choice in Canberra on that second one.

Granted for most people a stroker will probably improve what you want, but i decided it was not worth the money in my case. And i know i'm not the only one to fall under this category.

Just my 2c ignore it of you like.

Power level: probably 400kw but thats over years!!!! and still responsive.

Street only ( that said I dont mind certain parts that would be a pain on the street )

Budget: well it not really a thing. I mean i don't want to go over the top. But its over years so I think the actual dollar value will be hard to actually idenify.

driving style.... lights to light but I do love the "natural chicanes" and look at google maps and look at the Adelaide hills

[sneakey pete]

I find it interesting that people are very... flippant when mentioning the cost of the stroker. "1000 bucks more". Honestly, is it really that little? Particularly with some of the Japanese kits i'd expect that you'd be looking at a larger increase for the stroker.

[Piggaz]

1 - Tomei stroker = $5,200 on nengun ATM. That includes crank, rods, rod bolts, rings and pistons.

2 - Machining and assembly, lets call that $3,000

3 - Head gasket = $300

4 - Water pump and oil pump = $1700 for both

5 - Head and cams. That could range from a service to a full blown $10,000 effort. For the sake of it lets go with $2,500.

6 - New timing belt = $150

7 - Bearings = $300

The rest of the stuff like sump baffles, turbo's doesnt really matter.

Items 2-7 you need regardless of what size engine you go with.

Now, Just say you have turned a bearing in your 26, crank is toast.

New crank (looked up a price on Ebay) = $1724

Pistons. Choose your poison. Lets go with CP = $1155

Rods. Say a manley H beam = $1280

Total $4159 for the rotating assembly. As opposed to $5,200 for a tomei stroker.

$13150 for a stroker

$12,109 for a 2.6 assuming new crank needed with the same above mentioned parts.

I havent inlcuded shipping in any of this. Either way you'd be paying it regardless.

These are VERY rough figures. I'm not going to sit here all night looking for the cheapest part or your brothers cousin can do a special price.

By the time you factor in injectors, clutch, fuel pumps, ECU, tune cost, exhaust, dumps, turbo's, intercooler, wheels, brakes, tyres and alllll te rest of the gear you need to "complete" a car, the difference is insignificant.