Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

people stay 2.6 for 2 reasons, they are tight asses and don't want to spend an extra $1000 on a rebuild (which means they should never have bought a Gtr in the first place)

Biggest load of rubbish I have ever heard. f**ken tight arses! Who the f**k do you think you are.

I say if people don't like a 26 then don't buy a gtr.

The 26 is more than capable in every way.... Dickwad.

  • Like 1

So back on topic.

Apart from cost what are thr draw backs of going to a 2.8?

Drawbacks of staying 26?

Others please put your handbags away

Also into my original question can anyone comment on "feel" between the 2 ?

Edited by ibrox90

Some would argue the side wall loads with the shorter rod to stroke ratio. Meh, by the time that would really become an issue you would have sold the car or you would have given it a freshen up anyway.

Then there is the argument of "revving" which is dribble.

There really isn't a downside as such, unless you don't like more low to mid range punch.

A 77.7 mm crank should be the smallest you should go. To spend all that money and go to a "2.7 / 75.7 mm" seems a bit of a waste. If you're considering building a 2.6 why not just throw in a good condition stock engine. Look at Fatz.

By the time you buy rods, pistons, possibly a new stock crank, paying for machining and assembly only to have an engine that will drive almost identical to what you had. (Save for comp ratio increase or minor stuff like that) Why would one do that?

Stroke it! 2.8 or 2.9 and enjoy some much needed midrange twist that they so desperately need.

You mean the tubro upgrade page.... that ive already said this isnt about..... or .......

I guess you haven't actually read any of that thread. If you had you would have seen that although it is labelled turbo upgrade thread it actually includes a number of rb26 rebuilds and compares more than just turbo choices. You will see some who have reconditioned with stock components and some who have forged engines etc etc - in short people who have made the deliberate decision to stick with the Rb26 - people you thought didn't exist.

  • Like 1

Basically if you want to spend a load of cash to have something that's drives exactly the same as it did before leave it as a 2.6

Or for a little extra you can stroke it and have a car that's nicer to drive, easier to drive and faster to drive

  • Like 1

A forged 26 is far from a stock 26. Don't listen to all this dribble. You can pound a lot more boost into them, and with head work, proper balancing and blue printing and oil control mods you can rev them safely, so yeah you can run big power numbers reliably. You don't need larger capacity to do this, everything just happens a bit higher in the rev range thats all.

A forged 26 is far from a stock 26. Don't listen to all this dribble. You can pound a lot more boost into them, and with head work, proper balancing and blue printing and oil control mods you can rev them safely, so yeah you can run big power numbers reliably. You don't need larger capacity to do this, everything just happens a bit higher in the rev range thats all.

Lol dont listen to the lag man! He thinks the midrange is above 5000rpm! :P
  • Like 2

i didn't realize a forged piston and rod could make a turbo come on boost earlier then a cast item

Well if you are putting 25% more boost into a forged engine it is natural making more power at a given rpm isn't it? Even with everything else being equal. On top of that you tickle the head and so on and its a totally different beast. Doesn't matter how you look at it, its not the same as a standard engine as you are trying to convice the op it is. You guys are either delusional or full of shit.

I guess you haven't actually read any of that thread. If you had you would have seen that although it is labelled turbo upgrade thread it actually includes a number of rb26 rebuilds and compares more than just turbo choices. You will see some who have reconditioned with stock components and some who have forged engines etc etc - in short people who have made the deliberate decision to stick with the Rb26 - people you thought didn't exist.

FFS mate go back and read the original post. Where are the opinions ? wheres their thought processes?

oh look new thread.

There's some awesome info in here and a lot of what I've wanted and varying and differing opinions which is great.

However as always with SAU lately it just turns into a cock measuring contest full of knobs presenting their opinion as fact and the cocky i know everything types.

Some solid info here.

As for a forged 26 being the same as stock and feeling stock..... surely with strong components one would fire in more boost( air), more fuel and more revs. So its more of an animal.

Does anyone find that while the 2.8 is larger capacity and more low down torque that it feels at all sluggish being larger capacity? Like does the longer stroke inhibit its capacity to rev freely .

my issue is in the back of my mind.... if the 2.8 is so ducks nuts awesome...... why did nissan build a 2.6........ if all it needs is a different crank.....

Edited by ibrox90

No they still feel punchy and ready to go, they just do everything easier due to the extra capacity

People go from a 2.6 to a stroker but no one goes from a stroker back to a 2.6

Nissan built a 2.6 due to the regulations they were running in while designing the r32 Gtr, but if you look at the nismo special models (400r, ztune) they have factory 2.8s in them. So even nismo can see the benefit of having the extra capacity

Nissan used a 2.6 L engine because of the group A rules at the time. If you look at the R34's they were using 2.8 L engines.

As for this "rev" thing, WTF. Look at the length of strokes in some of the Honda engines. They have no issue spinning to the moon.

2.8 engines even the 85 mm stroke of a RB 30 isn't particularly long.

All jokes aside, if someone said I had to go back and use a 2.6, id sell the car.

  • Like 1

The price you'll spend on the rebuild/refresh of an RB26 you may as well go the extra and go for the RB28 if you are determined. The car won't be sluggish and you'll enjoy the low down torque more and response you get from the car.

If you didn't have to do a rebuild I'd say stay with the motor you have and just put on a nice set of twins and supporting mods for it and you can enjoy a nice response street car. Then you can improve other components of the car like steering and what not with the cash you didn't throw at a rebuild to get it driving well.

But what you're saying is it doesn't come on boost earlier, just makes more power because of the extra boost you put in it?

Just look at the post you wrote below

Basically if you want to spend a load of cash to have something that's drives exactly the same as it did before leave it as a 2.6

One of the stupidest things I have ever read as you are implying that any engine that is rebuilt properly to the original capacity with forged internals has no benefit. Of course it is different as I have already mentioned.

Yeah and of course its the extra boost, if you can make 10psi more at the same rpm and keeping it there for longer, that's what's its all about isn't it. Just because with a stroker boost comes in 500 rpm early, doesn't mean a forged 26 drives the same as a stock 26.

Don't make up crap just to justify your own delusion or to lie just because you have a preference to stroker's characteristics. If you believe your above post then you know nothing and should not be recommending anything to a guy who wants honest advice. Your above post is just stupid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...