Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My RB25 has developed a ticking sound which appears when the engine is warm and only at idle. Anything above idle and it seems to disappear.

It is *not* the injectors pulsing. In fact it can barely be heard when your head is over the engine.

You can hear it best when listening either below the engine or at the back of the front wheel wells.

I tried using a wooden dowel/long screwdriver stethoscope but couldn't isolate the origin of the sound.

I recorded a short audio clip from below the car which demonstrates the sound:

I first thought sticky lifters or a leaking exhaust gasket, but they would presumably appear worse when cold. This sound only appears when the engine is up to temp.

Ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459216-ticking-sound-on-idle-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...
  • 2 years later...

G’day, I Have this exact same noise in the video, anyone end up figuring it out? Same issue as originally described and tried everything OP did aswell. Only once warmed up, runs and sounds fine while warming up. Not an exhaust leak, all new gaskets + studs, washers and nuts for manifold and turbo. Also changed oil and filter plus trying different oil viscosities, hasn’t made a difference.  

Leaning towards lifters but due to it being alright on cold start has me baffled.
 

  • 7 months later...

VCT is working fine, it’s even difficult to locate the sound with a stethoscope. However definitely audible from under the engine as with OP’s video. Possibly worn bearings but it’s definitely not a knock. The sound can be heard while driving with the window down aswell when passing a barrier or other cars when the sound bounces back. Sounds like a little jingle bell weirdly enough. Any other ideas? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though eg https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett
    • I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them
    • For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
    • Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.
×
×
  • Create New...