Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've tried googling to no avail so I thought I'd post on here.

My r34 gtt oil temp seems to get getting kinda high lately and I've no idea what could cause it. It sits around 100 degrees and today it got to 110. All the while the water temp is sitting just below half way.

When I bought the car, I got a radiator shop to flush out the stock radiator and install a new top tank. I've just put a new thermostat (genuine Nissan). The only thing I could think of that would be causing the oil temp to get this high was my sump having a large dent in it. I've since installed a new sumo and the same thing is happening.

All the google results in sau and other forums either talk about water temps or seem to be saying to get a new radiator but I've just had mine cleaned and repaired so idk if it's worth doing still.

I'm running penlight full synthetic 10-50 from memory (it was just whatever repco recommended for the car, might not be 10-50) with a k&n oil filter

Halo please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459248-r34-gtt-oil-temp-problems/
Share on other sites

What oil temp sensor and gauge are you using?

Have you considered shooting the side of the sump with an infrared pyrometer when the gauge is saying 100 and see if the sump is close to that or a long way away?

Have you fiddled with any oil cooler/filter relocation plumbing lately? (See other recent thread in this very forum!!!)

Sorry, forgot to mention. It's the stock triple gauges and the engine is completely stock minus a bov. Haven't done anything to it other than fixing the sump, radiator and thermo. Whenever I start the car there's a belt squealing, would that maybe be the clutch fan?

Not sure why people dis the factory gauges so much, most of the time it either works or doesn't

Only bad thing about it is the lack of detailed scale

Sensors are shared with the GTR MFD sensors anyway, haven't heard anyone saying that the MFD is inaccurate

Could even be a bad connection or earth causing the faulty readings.

Grab radiator hose, feel the heat, grab oil filter, it shouldn't be double the temp.....(backyarders way and it should be pretty obvious)

Just putting it out there, 100 degrees after 30 minutes driving is not high. That is a very realistic and normal value for that period of driving plus other external conditions. If you start exceeding that drastically say like 120-30 degrees regularly then you start to have problems. But the oil temperature remaining around 100 degrees is fairly normal after long periods of driving. The scaling is also very bad so you could be over estimating its actual value.

Secondly your water temperature will not be half way. I am assuming you are using the standard C to H gauge as the indicator which has no number scale on there so you won't be able to know what the actual value is. It would probably be around 80-85 degrees ideally for stock radiator and that is an acceptable value.

If you've changed nothing recently like oil cooling or what not as mentioned then the oil temperature sensor could be on its way out.

yeah thats what I'm thinking, the oil temp sensor could be dying. it is an old car after all. anyone know where to buy a replacement? or any way to test the current one.

its doesnt seem like the car is running hot, as I said before it still drives fine and no other warnings or temps are going off. a few mechanics said that 100-110 isnt really anything to be worried about and to be honest ive never really paid attention to the gauge till now anyways so i have no idea what it was running at before.

is there any way to test the earth or check them?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Porous blocks are a known issue on something like a Porsche M96, it's not really something I've ever heard of on an RB26. It's possible what people thought was a "porous block" was really a cracked block that they just didn't spot the crack on.
    • This is a controversial subject really, the whole power vs fun thing I mean And this is the main reason I got back into a MX5 Of the last few notable daily cars I've owned whilst I have frequented SAU R33 GTS-t: fun, but because I'm a idiot I modified well past a reliable fun car and ended up hating it, although that was my fault because I tried to have a daily cruiser and race car all in one, the family called it the sometimes car, because sometimes it was working, sometimes it was broken, gladly sold it NB MX5: brilliant car, thrashed the Bejebus out of it, but, again, was stupid and deleted the air con, power steering and stripped the interior out, whilst still fun, and reliable, and super cheap on consumables, it was not a fun place to be going on long cruises, I did love it, but basically every family member hated going anywhere in it, sadly sold it 2015 WRX STI: soulless thing that looked like your average Kia sedan and had that horrible boxer engine with glass ringlands, the family did like it though, that thing was one of my stupidest purchases and I still regret it 2017 Toyota 86: 😪 if I didn't crash it, I would probably still have it, it was a fun little thing, even with that horrible boxer engine, the family did like it, the only reason I didn't get another 86, or, BRZ was the boxer engine, I should have learnt after owning the STI, but I'm a idiot VX SS: great cruiser, fits the whole family, and was fast as.....in a straight line, but a big fat thing, so no enjoyment throwing it around corners, the family was unimpressed with the whole boganness of if, but they did admit it was a comfy place to sit on long cruises As for the NC, I feel it is perfect for what I want, or need out of of a car, whether I'm cruising the Hwy, back roads, twisties or peak hour traffic, the Mrs doesn't mind driving it either, or cruising in it as well, although she does bump her head of the roof nearly every time she gets in, which is farking hilarious, and the kids love taking it for a thrash as well So basically, I've had constantly more fun, and way less headache and heartache, both on the track and on the street, in low powered cars,  go figure.....LOL One thing though, the Mrs has stated that the cams have made the exhaust sound much louder, which they have, but it doesn't bother me, in fact, I actually like it, but, to negate any future comments from the Minister for War and Finances I may look at some changes to the rear muffler set-up to drop the volume down a tad to appease her when we are out and about in it
    • You will need to extend the turbo inlet pipe somehow, which could/might be done with silicone/rubber pipe, but might need steelwork, depending on your intake. And you will need to change the pipework on the outlet in teh same way, but this is more likely to need steelwork.
    • I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages
    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
×
×
  • Create New...