Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've tried googling to no avail so I thought I'd post on here.

My r34 gtt oil temp seems to get getting kinda high lately and I've no idea what could cause it. It sits around 100 degrees and today it got to 110. All the while the water temp is sitting just below half way.

When I bought the car, I got a radiator shop to flush out the stock radiator and install a new top tank. I've just put a new thermostat (genuine Nissan). The only thing I could think of that would be causing the oil temp to get this high was my sump having a large dent in it. I've since installed a new sumo and the same thing is happening.

All the google results in sau and other forums either talk about water temps or seem to be saying to get a new radiator but I've just had mine cleaned and repaired so idk if it's worth doing still.

I'm running penlight full synthetic 10-50 from memory (it was just whatever repco recommended for the car, might not be 10-50) with a k&n oil filter

Halo please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459248-r34-gtt-oil-temp-problems/
Share on other sites

What oil temp sensor and gauge are you using?

Have you considered shooting the side of the sump with an infrared pyrometer when the gauge is saying 100 and see if the sump is close to that or a long way away?

Have you fiddled with any oil cooler/filter relocation plumbing lately? (See other recent thread in this very forum!!!)

Sorry, forgot to mention. It's the stock triple gauges and the engine is completely stock minus a bov. Haven't done anything to it other than fixing the sump, radiator and thermo. Whenever I start the car there's a belt squealing, would that maybe be the clutch fan?

Not sure why people dis the factory gauges so much, most of the time it either works or doesn't

Only bad thing about it is the lack of detailed scale

Sensors are shared with the GTR MFD sensors anyway, haven't heard anyone saying that the MFD is inaccurate

Could even be a bad connection or earth causing the faulty readings.

Grab radiator hose, feel the heat, grab oil filter, it shouldn't be double the temp.....(backyarders way and it should be pretty obvious)

Just putting it out there, 100 degrees after 30 minutes driving is not high. That is a very realistic and normal value for that period of driving plus other external conditions. If you start exceeding that drastically say like 120-30 degrees regularly then you start to have problems. But the oil temperature remaining around 100 degrees is fairly normal after long periods of driving. The scaling is also very bad so you could be over estimating its actual value.

Secondly your water temperature will not be half way. I am assuming you are using the standard C to H gauge as the indicator which has no number scale on there so you won't be able to know what the actual value is. It would probably be around 80-85 degrees ideally for stock radiator and that is an acceptable value.

If you've changed nothing recently like oil cooling or what not as mentioned then the oil temperature sensor could be on its way out.

yeah thats what I'm thinking, the oil temp sensor could be dying. it is an old car after all. anyone know where to buy a replacement? or any way to test the current one.

its doesnt seem like the car is running hot, as I said before it still drives fine and no other warnings or temps are going off. a few mechanics said that 100-110 isnt really anything to be worried about and to be honest ive never really paid attention to the gauge till now anyways so i have no idea what it was running at before.

is there any way to test the earth or check them?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...