Jump to content
SAU Community

33 Rb25det Boost Problem

r33 dylan

By r33 dylan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33 dylan Apprentice

r33 dylan

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, been searching everywhere for an answer but cant seem to find a pinpoint one so im hoping you guys can help.

Basically when i hit about 4.5-5 revs the car just seems to die in the ass and not want to go anywhere at flat foot but if i creepy up the revs at 1/2 throttle and then 3/4 throttle then flat foot it at higher revs it goes like a rocket but after giving it that little boot full the turbo seems to completely stop working and wont even spool up or flutter for ages unless it sits for awhile or car is turned off.

Now when im flat foot it just feels like its choking and struggles to move through the 4+ revs or even the lower revs when trying to accelerate a little quicker then normal.

also when putting the boost up to say 10-11 psi the turbo always spools but its like the ecu doesnt know what or how to handle this bit of extra boost and just wont go anywhere aswell.

hopefully i have described this decently enough to have you gurus tell me how to fix this issue, as it seems to be a trick to try and put into words how to describe whats happening lol.

specs- rb25det neo, all stock setup except for coilpacks which are probably less than a year old (splitfires), changed plugs less than 2 weeks ago.

car has only recently in the last couple weeks started having this issue and before that it was a fun and reliable car to thrash around.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459280-33-rb25det-boost-problem/
Share on other sites
Gcjosh Community Regular

Gcjosh

Posted
Posted

Search nazis should be shot, a bit like small dick punctuation nazis...

anyway back on subject, you changed plugs now have issues? Is that the only thing you've done? What's your air filter like? Fuel filter?

Air/fuel/spark [emoji6] check those first

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Either put everything back to stock, or tune the car.

You can't just go bumping the boost up without tuning, it will run like balls and perhaps throw a turbine wheel. It will run even worse if you have a highflow turbo you don't know about.

r33 dylan Apprentice

r33 dylan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Everything is back to stock, was just driving home from the gym and it seems once the turbo spools up to a certain point and I off the accelerator it just stops working.

Plugs were gapped correctly and I'm under the impression I'll need to go for a tune, was just seeing if anyone has any ideas. I'm very new to the forced induction life, lesrn from

Your mistakes I guess.

Cheers guys :)

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Turn you boost down, colder weather means denser air. More "air" read by the AFM means a higher TP Load, and because it's a stock ECU and tune you're hitting cells where timing is absolutely retarded as fk.

Boost doesn't equal TP Load, you might be able to run 10/11 psi in summer or so but when it's cold you'll hit those cells running the same boost.

I suggest you turn down the boost.

r33 dylan Apprentice

r33 dylan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Turn you boost down, colder weather means denser air. More "air" read by the AFM means a higher TP Load, and because it's a stock ECU and tune you're hitting cells where timing is absolutely retarded as fk.

Boost doesn't equal TP Load, you might be able to run 10/11 psi in summer or so but when it's cold you'll hit those cells running the same boost.

I suggest you turn down the boost.

Have turned boost back to normal but is still having issues
r33 dylan Apprentice

r33 dylan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like your AFM has dry joint inside it then. Cut it open and solder the pins first, there is a how to on here somewhere.

A new Z32 AFM and a tune would likely fix it too.

Thanks dude, I had a feeling it might be the afm so I'll go sort out a z32. I appreciate the feedback

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Turn signal wiring question

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...