Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Harmonic Balancer Stuck

LuckyTune

By LuckyTune,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

LuckyTune Community Regular

LuckyTune

Posted
Posted

I was planning to change the timing belt over the weekend (first time since I have had this car) and when I got to the harmonic balancer the bolt was loose and the balancer is stuck on.

My concern is that the key way is bent, basically I was putting as much force on the puller as I could with a 1/2 inch ratchet, and wasn't game to try with a breaker bar.

Now I'm wondering whether I just leave it as is until the water pump or timing belt goes and then rebuild or do I sacrifice the balancer and puller to get it off and hope the crank is ok.

Any advice or tips from anyone who has been in this situation would be great

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Try using some WD40 on it and leave it for a while to penetrate??

Also maybe Freezer spray???

Never had it before, but just thinking of other bolts and pulleys/cogs and how I've got them off and Oxy warming is prob not a goer for this one lol, although I have heard of jugs of boiling water being used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
LuckyTune Community Regular

LuckyTune

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I will try lubricating some more - main concern is that the key way is damaged and if I force it off I will be up for a new crank.

I was using a bolt type puller but it looks like someone else has had a go with a claw puller because part of the lip on the front has been snapped off

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

OP mentioned Bolt was already loose, ill bet key way and key is damaged.

Get the best puller you can and have fun now.

Dont let it go till the belt breaks......valves will meet pistons.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

I hate to be captain pessimist but there is a bloody good chance your oil pump is on it's way out too.

On RB's loose balancer bolt quite often leads to shattered oil pump. Happened to me and a few others I've about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

If the balancer bolt was loose often the balancer will flog out the key way as well as the key.

Then the balancer can rotate slightly and jamb on the remains of the key.

I'd persevere with decent puller bolts.

Easier to do this work in-situ than chasing an engine around the shop on a stand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

i am picturing some king of clamping mechanism locking a router type tool into place on the crank

Yep, but good luck getting it close enough into towards the block with the motor of the router in the way.

Only way is crank out and CNC or manual mill a new one in.....

It can be done by hand, if your just fixing it to sell, but good luck to the poor sucker who gets stuck with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...