Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at getting upgraded injectors for my r33 gts-t and it looks like ill need top feed ones and im going with id brand, either 720? Or 850s. Thing is i dont know much about fuel rails and injector installs. Ill get a shop to fit, but can someone explain a bit about whats needed, sizes and how it fits together? I hear id need short version injectors for rb25det etc...

And with a fuel rail, id buy the rail, but does that just bolt on generally, to the oem hoses and parts etc? Do i need to buy additional parts, etc?

Thanks

Go to scottys customs website and have a look. He has a conversion kit all you need is the short injectors!

All there all done for you. You could even email him or find him on Facebook and message him about it.

He's been a great help to me but because I want the stock look I'm going Nismo 740CC

I've been following your posts for ages now! I'm using your fuel pump guide next week :)

hhahahaa sweet man!

Yeah, hit up Scotty - he has all the parts and I've measured out all the spacers for him already so he knows exactly what to supply based on what application

And whats the deal with fuel pressure regulators? Why/when is this needed?

Usually not needed. You have two main reasons to need one.

1) You are living in the early 1990s and you cannot buy bigger injectors or better engine management. The only way to get more fuel into your engine is to bump up the pressure.

2) You are fitting an aftermarket fuel rail and cannot put your OEM regulator onto it. Ergo you have to buy a reg that will fit.

For most people the OEM reg is able to flow enough return fuel for quite large fuel pump upgrades without losing control of the fuel pressure. Once you get past that point THEN you have a really good reason to buy an aftermarket reg.

How much power do you need to support? Drop in a set of S15 injectors? Would be plenty for a hi-flow turbo.

If not just go Nismo 740cc or any other drop ins you can get your hands on.

Then no need for cop-attracting fuel rail, fancy hosing or aftermarket reg to over complicate things.

How much power do you need to support? Drop in a set of S15 injectors? Would be plenty for a hi-flow turbo.

If not just go Nismo 740cc or any other drop ins you can get your hands on.

Then no need for cop-attracting fuel rail, fancy hosing or aftermarket reg to over complicate things.

This is the reason I'm going 740s :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...