Thoughts On This R34 Gt-r?

[No Crust Racing]

I've been talking with the owner about this but I'm in two minds about it. It ticks a lot of boxes (gun metal, dark interior, modded) but there's a few things I'm not sure about.

Here's the details from the ad.

2001 model, (comes with dark interior)

144,XXXkm's (Genuine Odo...)

Exterior: Full custom gunmetal respray Car is immaculate.

Wheels/Suspension: New Nitto Invo's New RDA Rotors with new New Project Mu HC800 pads Genuine Rays Engineering Volk TE37 Superlap's 19x9.5 Nismo Type S suspension front and rear. Exhaust: HKS Super Silent 3" Venom Cat HPI dump pipes Blitz front pipes

Engine/drivetrain mods: Nismo Super Coppermix Clutch. Garrett Gt2860-5 turbo's Splitfire Coilpacks Haltech Platinum Pro ECU. Tomei Poncams 800cc Sard injectors Walbro 400LPH intank pump Apexi/HKS full piping kit and pods Genuine HKS type R intercooler.

interior: Stock, clean interior, no extra guages or stuff like that.

A final Note: First Australian Owner, Imported in 2011 as a completely stock vehicle. Car is running a good street tune at the moment, just had a service. Owned her for 4 years, time to say goodbye . Very reluctant sale.

After talking to the owner, who is very helpful and seems quite honest and genuine. A few things stand out.

- I'm in two minds about the respray, it looks like a quality job (I'll fly up to inspect the car myself if it passes a preliminary check over by my dad who is closer to the car). I love the colour but wonder what's being hidden. He notes he painted it as the black paint was faded in a few spots and that he loves gunmetal.

- The boot lock does not match the key which implies tome it's had a boot lid replaced - maybe from a hit. The seller mentioned that himself and said the panel beater could find no trace of a hit as the seller had this same concern.

- High k's, he notes it has excellent compression (Godzilla Motorsport) and is making a safe 340awkw which is a little low for -5's but is only running 98 octane, I'm not just thinking about the engine though (diffs/box/bushes etc). I'm aware that lots of GT-R's receive cluster swaps and have much higher K's than advertised, he claims this is the original cluster. The car can possibly also come with a fully prepped RB30 short block that he has sitting ready. He said he's welcome for me to have the car professionally inspected and also offered a hoist for when my dad comes by,

- Interior blemishes. The seats look good but the marks on the cluster surround I'm not sure I can clean off. Also the marks on the passenger side rear arm rest and the carbon fibre wrap on the coin cover and near the AC controls. He said he's removing this and cleaning up any residue.

- In terms of pros, he has a bunch of spares that will come with the car. Turbos, piping, powerFC, 2 spare rims (just Rota's) and possibly that RB30 (which I might sell as the work involved is still fairly substantial, RB28 might be easier). Basically anything he has modified he has kept the stock version of (except the cams). There's quite a few dollars in bits there, especially if I can get that RB30 as well.

- I love the colour/wheel combo and while it's a respray it's also a one off unique colour which makes it a little special. Not sure about those wheels in matte, I assume I could put a clear coat over them for a gloss look, though the offset looks a little tame on them also.

- There's nothing else on the market like this at present so I'd have to import otherwise.

The car will be a once a month kind of drive and the occassional track day (hence concern around K's). I would add a vspec 2 naca duct and rear diffuser also as the car is not a v-spec. I'll also add the exhaust temp and intake sensors and add those to the MFD via the diag mode as described on here.

He's coming back to me with full details on the short motor but gave me this rundown - cometic head gasket all quality brand new ARP fasteners, big end bolts and head studs etc.

The engine and crank have been machined and balanced, the con-rods are spool items and the pistons are Carrillo's. all the big end bearings and girdle bearings are ACL race bearings. Built for 9:1 and e85.

The seller himself seems very friendly, helpful and more than happy to answer my questions, show me photos and is very specific about showing me any flaws etc.

Thoughts?

Oh and don't go trying to buy it... I've got dibs on it.

Edited September 7, 2015 by ActionDan

[GTR-N1]

He seems to have invested time and money with quality items on this car Dan.

VIN# check? JOC check?

[No Crust Racing]

I haven't even asked for the VIN yet, what's a JOC?

He strikes me that way, he was well aware of any problem I through at him, such as "How's the MFD?" "Its been replaced as I couldn't handle the crazing on the screen".

He gave me a full run down of how to fit the RB30, some issues with RB26 alternators, why he had swapped to RB30, discussion around R34 CAS etc etc.

Edited September 7, 2015 by ActionDan

[GTR-N1]

Japanese Odometer Check. He's worth it to do the history of the car for you in case the current owner is naive from the outset.

[No Crust Racing]

How does that work/how do I pursue it?

And thank you.

EDIT: If it's this then that's money well spent.

http://www.japaneseodometercheck.com/purchase.html

Edited September 7, 2015 by ActionDan

[Hadouken]

Do JOC,

I would, and I would look over it with a fine tooth combe. But it looks the goods

[No Crust Racing]

My plan is to have my dad take a look (he's got an excellent eye and plenty of mechanical knowledge) as I'll need to fly up to see it.

If my dad gives it the OK I'll have a workshop professional inspect/comp test.

If that's OK I'll fly up for a final inspection/drive and leave a deposit.

I'm awaiting the VIN as we speak and will do the JOC.

Are people not concerned about the respray or the high k's?

Edited September 7, 2015 by ActionDan

[niZmO_Man]

http://www.japanesehistorycheck.com/

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Japanese-History-Check/557835010998928

These guys tend to dig a bit deeper, found some rather dodgy cars (e.g. re-registered twice in Japan to wipe the previous two recorded km).

RE: body, bit hard unless you really know what you're looking for. E.g. a relo of mine is a spray painter, he can tell straight away if a car has been hit, whether the respray was good, etc.

Mileage seems fine, remember they're 15 years old now.

[No Crust Racing]

Excellent, thanks.

[Hadouken]

Respray was done well I think.

Panels removed windows out, much better than a closed door respray.

The k's are probably a close representation of every other 34 gtr cruising around with a wound back clock.

[No Crust Racing]

I thought this too, but I question how long the motor will live with a factory head gasket and bottom end at that power.

Pulling the head on my track car was a pain as it was without 2 mote cylinders and an extra turbo to consider.

[Hadouken]

I thought it was built...

He's coming back to me with full details on the short motor but gave me this rundown - cometic head gasket all quality brand new ARP fasteners, big end bolts and head studs etc.

The engine and crank have been machined and balanced, the con-rods are spool items and the pistons are Carrillo's. all the big end bearings and girdle bearings are ACL race bearings. Built for 9:1 and e85.

[No Crust Racing]

I'm not sure I follow what you mean.

The current motor in the car is the factory 26. He has an assembled RB30 short motor and is coming back to me with receipts for all the work done so I have a full run down of the specs.

Did I miss something?

[Hadouken]

nah nah, seems I missed that bit.

[No Crust Racing]

All good.

My plan would be to sell that RB30 or swap it for an RB28 of similar build - simply for ease of install.

[breaker1845]

Get it to a workshop to professionally inspect, and look yourself if your Dad is happy with it. Need to look at the under body to be satisfied there is no damage or bad rust issues that are being hidden. Do the history check as some dodgy stuff could of happened when importing and usually it is picked up from the transition between Japan and Australia when the km's or stuff doesn't match. 144k km seems reasonable though.

Seems legit and like a good deal but you want to be absolutely positive before buying a 60k+ plus car at least and a flight down to inspect can't hurt that much compared to being disappointed by hidden issues you didn't inspect. All the best with it.

[No Crust Racing]

Will definitely inspect personally before buying.

Cheers

[okooko]

I'm also particularly fussy about the minor marks and scratches etc but over time I've just 50% forgotten about them and realised it's not a museum piece I'm keeping so I'm no longer thinking about that clip that's missing or what not.

Dont get me wrong, it's the exact mindset you'd want when buying.

As for the boot lock, can you get a new one barrell matched to the existing key?

Looks rather tastefully modded and I love the standard interior/engine bay. As for the respray and high Kms, it'll be in fresher condition than any other comparison and seeing the vehicles condition (underside, engine, interior wear etc) wil give you a good indication over the kms on the cluster.

Apart from a reluctant sale, has the owner indicated why he's letting it go when he's half way through a rb30 bottom end?

When was the last major service? good to know if you're up for one given the kms.

Cluster surround marks could have been gauges? hard to see when driving!

Yeah agree with above poster, do all the checks you can, and get the right people to see it as that money is money well spent.

Call up the workshop that regularly services the car for a chat too, cheap phone calls.

[No Crust Racing]

I'm not sure about the boot lock, he said the interior release works fine, but my thought would be you'd need an all new lock/key set to have them matching.

He has a hoist and encouraged us to inspect on that to see how clean it is underneath.

He's clearing out all his toys that sit unused he said, is selling a number of other things also.

Cheers

[okooko]

Yeah had a quick look around SAU, you'll need a new boot lock and have it rekeyed/matched to the rest of the car, pretty much what you said.

Hopefully he's kept lots of the paperwork, invoices etc always good to know the history if possible.

Is it running around 20lb to make that 340kw on the -5s?