Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No idea of the condition, but it does seem like a good base to build, local-ish is also a step in the right direction

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lynbrook/cars-vans-utes/r34-gtr/1087776979

All the best with your search, this is one of my fav threads at the moment, only second to the R34 picture thread

Sorry to hear about that mate, been checking with this thread for ages haha

Ooooooh nice! :yes:

Spoke to the owner, he's pretty unhappy, not with me, but in knowing that the car has been in a hit.

He mentioned that the panel beater who painted it couldn't fault the car and that he was going to strip it down on that side to inspect it himself and would take photos, for me and for his own records/peace of mind.

Encouraged me to come and inspect it myself and said he had nothing to hide etc, I said I am not positioned to comment on the quality of structural repairs and that while photos would be good, at this stage I was reluctant to want to proceed.

Further compression test this morning from the road worthy mechanic, not the tuner, also came back without issue.

I said I'd forward on the full details for him when I had them from the check and that he was welcome to send me more photos, but that ultimately I was now stepping back.

When I have the full report I'll make a final call but I don't really like the idea of risking it.

Is there a dollar value that this could would sell for that would make it worth it? 40k? 30k?

It would depend solely on the potential buyer. If the buyer is after a mint museum piece for a 14 year old car, then they would turn down any example with repairs.

Now that you're armed with the knowledge and you might find the repairs acceptible and send it to a specialist to check the vehicle structurally for safety (as a replaced panel isn't going to be a problem).

I used to be picky at everything until I realised that you have to adjust to the age of the car, cant expect any 14 year old car to have a flawless history like a 4-5 year old GTR would.

Pricewise will still largely be the same, there will eventually be someone who will accept the repairs and not see it as critical (its not like the car is verging on undrivable) albeit for a slightly lower price but nothing like 40k.

I think for $30k it would sell in a matter of days.

I was in a similar position to you early last year except I was after a standard pristine 34 V-spec in BSB... Which a mate had and would've sold cheap to me.
Ultimately I didn't do it as having had 32s and 33s before, seemed hard to justify.

I bought a Honda instead...


Keep thread updated man, keen follower haha.

Well everyone who has read this thread will probably be against purchasing the car if you don't purchase it.

This is why the checks from Japan are important before buying these cars because you'll find a lot with history that you did not expect.

As okooko said, someone might be inclined to buy the car if they are not concerned too much about the repairs. Being realistic if they are done correctly and the vehicle is structurally safe then there shouldn't be an issue.

These cars are getting old and hard to find pristine condition now so if you want one you have to wait or bite the bullet and find one that has minimal work done to it I guess. Structural repairs are hard to comment on as you said, need a professional to look at it to determine the quality, cosmetic repairs not much of an issue. Rust can be just as bad as structural repairs depending on severity.

Sad to see the outcome for yourself and the owner as he now knows of the history, which isn't a good one. But it definitely reinforces the need to do background checks on any serious purchase as you'd hate to find out this information later on once you've bought the car.

Please tell me it was an NSX.

Got offered 2 other cars. The 34 is a 2000 vpsec (grey interior :( ) but has all the fruit for 480hp or so, is currently at racepace so I can speak to chris about it. under 50k's supposedly still has factory rotors so beleive to be genuine (of course would check). Also missing skirts and rear pods. Seats are up to 2k just for the fronts and I would want black, but I could just as easily buy nice race seats for that money or less, but then need black rear interior. Also needs MFD film replaced as is common.

The 33 is a wild card, looks like a beautiful series 3 in my choice of wheels and colour and a built 26/30 with 500kw 0_0. Apparently wants 34 money for it though but said he has spent 140k on it and "everything is new and pristine".

post-23873-0-40228400-1442375688_thumb.jpg

and

post-23873-0-20880100-1442375484_thumb.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

Please tell me it was an NSX.

Got offered 2 other cars. The 34 is a 2000 vpsec (grey interior :( ) but has all the fruit for 480hp or so, is currently at racepace so I can speak to chris about it. under 50k's supposedly still has factory rotors so beleive to be genuine (of course would check). Also missing skirts and rear pods. Seats are up to 2k just for the fronts and I would want black, but I could just as easily buy nice race seats for that money or less, but then need black rear interior. Also needs MFD film replaced as is common.

The 33 is a wild card, looks like a beautiful series 3 in my choice of wheels and colour and a built 26/30 with 500kw 0_0. Apparently wants 34 money for it though but said he has spent 140k on it and "everything is new and pristine".

attachicon.gif11990806_1001586756553364_374099545_o.jpg

and

attachicon.gifunnamed.jpg

:yes:

Get a 34 IMO.

33s are great too but too many bunky S1/2s bring value down if you're thinking future resale.

If the 34 is a good one, you'll easily get part $ back from selling existing stuff and replacing it with what you please?

Or go buy that purple nsx on carsales.

I would sell the interior and the wheels. There's nothing else on it that could be sold.

The wheels would hopefully be a swap/sell enough to get something like what's on the 33.

The seats would go towards series 2 interior or black race seats with series 2 rear seats.

I'd then need pods and skirts and an MFD.

He's also asking more and it doesn't have spares like the gun metal one.

Edited by ActionDan

Given your preferences (interior color, power level, price range etc) you might be looking at more examples than the normal buyer would. Given the number of 34's for sale these days you might be looking for a little while to get one that ticks about 80% of the boxes and obviously 100% of the mechanicals/structurals.

Depending when you expect to have a car in the garage, I'd just keep and eye out, learn more things to look for after each car you see. When some good ones come up, have a more indepth look but be prepared to move quickly on some.

I second buying an NSX.

There's wiggle room on the r34. He has all original log books etc.

The 33 would need to be cheaper than the 34 for me to logically consider it.

Just can't justify 34 money on the previous model. Built or not.

Even a mint series 3 is not going to appreciate much if at all because its a 33.

Are you buying this car to drive at all or just sit in the shed? Sounds like you want to get a good condition one and hold onto it and re sell later for a profit.

If you enjoy the car in its current state do you really care about its resale value?

I plan on keeping my 33 for a long time but don't expect to sell it in the future for large sums of money.

Same if I had a 34, enjoy the car for what it is now and look after it, not with the intention of resale value later.

In general cars never appreciate in value, 34's have changed a bit but the main reason is due to popularity from media.

Thats not a bad plan.

Ultimately the resale value will fluctuate with demand/rarity but also if effected by how you maintain/drive/modify the car during your ownership.

as breaker1845 said, cars that appreciate are only the ones that are limited edition, low production, old, high demand due to various influences, or bit of everything.

If you buy a $50-60k GTR today and sell it in 5 years, given its relatively young age and the price of GTR's in comparison (~$60k for 09-11 at a guess in 2020?) it would need to be an outstanding car to command such a price. Plus all the sunuk costs in mods/running the car during that time.

It's different for me with a 32GTR having owned one for 6 years at ~20k, it's pretty much hit rock bottom and bounced back a little. As long as it still resembles a car itll be worth at least 20k.

my2c.

That's the issue with any car of course.

I see R34's having a better time holding some value than 33s, which will get sandwiched between 34s and 32s as 35s come down in price when the 36 arrives.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...