Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Something that did stand out about the car, I was just thinking about it, has an ATS twin plate carbon in it and when turning the car off there was a pronounced rattle as the flywheel/pressure plate stopped turning.

I'm aware of rattle on idle, but wasn't aware of pronounced rattle on shutdown.

Thoughts?

Slight rattle post ignition being off on mine as well (Nismo twinplate)

K's come back as 55000 at export in 2007, his records show 65000 on the odo when he bought it in 09/10 and it has 85 on it now, seems about right.

No auction papers due to when it was exported.

Jap history gave me that for free in the end given the delay, he mentioned email/hosting dramas.

I offered our services...

Looks like I'll aim for weekend after this one to go collect it and will start getting parts together and lining up the paint work.

Also...

Wanted:
VSpec front and rear diffusers.
Vspec pedal set.
Front inner wheel plastic sections - front most pieces left and right.
Rear spoiler, genuine or copy - but must be standard style. Carbon wing blade welcome.
Black wheel nuts - preferably Rays.
Rays Centre caps.
Nismo black drop sheet style seat covers front/rear.
Nismo gear knob, either the leather one or a black GT500 style one.
Things I will be selling/have to swap.
ARC Titanium Gearknob.
Bodyform Top Secret style FRP diffuser, with carbon look leading edge. Goes all the way back to the cross member. Pic below is of the same part, i can get full pics of the actual part when I collect it.
Rays red wheel nuts.
Standard mirrors in silver.
Standard guards in silver.
Freight to Wodonga will be required but I can also collect if anyone is in Canberra as I'll be up that way the weekend after this one. Collection from Melbourne also possible.
Cheers

Well I don't "have" it yet.

I'll be happy once it's aesthetically sorted. Power I'm in no rush for as it's just a street car and my days of racing everyone that might have looked at me are long gone.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...