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As an aside, I just saw on reddit of all places a guy talking about buying that car in QLD. As in, he bought it, and seemingly for more than I had negotiated.

Edited by ActionDan

My plan was to sell the PFC L and get a PFC D and ditch the AFMs completely for that reason, but we'll see what happens.

Because cams make the car sound angrier and give more response. What's not to like?

Edited by ActionDan

You don't think so?

I can't speak for 26s, but I can speak for having replaced the intake cam and adding cam gears on my track car. Gained easily 500rpm of response (on a 1.8L) and around 40Nm of midrange, Dyno tested back to back.

I cannot say for certain how much of that was the intake cam upgrade and how much was the gears being dialed in as the cam was already in there for base runs.

So if nothing else I can certainly confirm cam gears made a difference. I'd be really surprised if cams didn't also help.

Edited by ActionDan

My plan was to sell the PFC L and get a PFC D and ditch the AFMs completely for that reason, but we'll see what happens.

Because cams make the car sound angrier and give more response. What's not to like?

Why would you go down the D Jetro route with a PFC and not run something that isn't from 1912? The D Jetro you have to pull the intake off to drill number 3 and 4 runners for the the duel MAP sensors. That isn't a $20 exercise of paying a workshop.

Link G4

Haltech

Vipec

All plug in, more features, newer and will cost basically the same money at the end of the day.

No reason, not tied to anything in particular, and if the whole exercise is going to cost that much money, I'll just get better AFMs and a retune and leave the L Jetro in there as that'll likely be the cheapest option.

That's the biggest issue with anything MAP based is installing the sensors unless there's some new fangled way to achieve this? I've seen talk of balance tubes/pcv setups etc but it appears the best way is tapping the manifold?

Edited by ActionDan

You don't think so?

I can't speak for 26s, but I can speak for having replaced the intake cam and adding cam gears on my track car. Gained easily 500rpm of response (on a 1.8L) and around 40Nm of midrange, Dyno tested back to back.

I cannot say for certain how much of that was the intake cam upgrade and how much was the gears being dialed in as the cam was already in there for base runs.

So if nothing else I can certainly confirm cam gears made a difference. I'd be really surprised if cams didn't also help.

cmn gears make a huge difference and are worth every cent, we've done testing on multiple engines and bigger duration cams move the curve right (less response) they also lower the compression and make the car worse down low as well

i used to work for one of the tuners in Sydney, but when I say we, I mean me and a few people i know (also on here) who have played with different sized cams in Gtr engines (not all are still 2.6) and have proven that a bigger duration cam will have a negative effect on response

Yeah one of the guys went from a type b to the type r and show massive gains in response, but the only reason he went to the the type r was that he couldn't find a set of stock r34 cams at the time

there are quite a few map ecu's that dont require drilling or anything of the sort.

Like my trusty link g4

Like "they" have said. Bigger cams less response. you want response then just stay stock cams and get cam gears to try and shift the curve left as much as possible.

unless you just want the sound

Re exhaust is that 3.5" all the way? I think ideally I'd like to go -9s and aim for more like 320-330ish with cams for response.

I was planning to get some 600-700cc injectors and a drop in fuel pump just for safety. I actually thought Z32s were a must at that level?

Re the car, discussion with the owner continues and is looking semi promising.

Waiting to hear back from the Jap history check, baring that having some nightmare info I will aim to get up there next Monday to inspect. My partner is away all this weekend coming (so I'll have the kidlet) so that's out.

Just go 3.5" just so you have more room to tune with.

If you are aiming for 320 - 330 rwkw's you'll need to upgrade the injectors.

Fuel pump if you want but not necessary.

AFM's should just do you fine.

You don't think so?

I can't speak for 26s, but I can speak for having replaced the intake cam and adding cam gears on my track car. Gained easily 500rpm of response (on a 1.8L) and around 40Nm of midrange, Dyno tested back to back.

I cannot say for certain how much of that was the intake cam upgrade and how much was the gears being dialed in as the cam was already in there for base runs.

So if nothing else I can certainly confirm cam gears made a difference. I'd be really surprised if cams didn't also help.

Just do Cam Gears and get Racepace to set it all up and alter the Crank Angle Censor for response.

Hoping to get up there Monday to inspect. He's sourcing another rear spoiler for it and we've semi negotiated on a price based on me taking the diffuser, spoiler, guards etc and the car staying as is. I'll immediately get it all colour coded.

I note it's also missing the front most inner wheel plastic so I'll have to source some.

Seems far too coincidental to have not been in a front-ender, but I'll inspect and see. He said he was not aware there should be any plastics there and the rest of the wheel arch plastics are there.

I'm going to buy a new comp tester to take with me and do it while I'm there as well.

I've been looking at indoor car covers, thoughts? the show car style ones with the soft fleece lining as my shed gets dusty.

Also been looking at new rays stickers for the wheels (red superlap style) are those just stuck on or are they cleared over the top of?

Looking at rays centre caps and black wheel nuts as I'm not keen on the red/pink ones and some black drop sheet style seat covers to replace the red.

JapHistory check has not replied to anything I've sent them, that's twice they have been really slow in replying, I won't be using them again.

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