Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Wheels X2 R32 Gts-t Wheels X4

s13n1
 Share

Recommended Posts

s13n1 Contributor

s13n1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just curious if these are sought after wheels these days?

I have a pair of R32 GTR wheels and a set of 4 R32 GTS-T wheels, all powder coated the same colour.

They are currently on my S13.

Obviously the gtr wheels are on the back and a pair of the gts on the front.

I had them sand blasted and powder coated because gtr and gts wheels are a slightly different colour. I have all the center caps, which I've painted the same colour, and they look good.

I've had these for about 8-9 years and they're in great condition. No gutter rash and I think I've still got a can of touch up paint.

Im after a new look for my S13, something along the lines of some BBS LM's, and thought I would see if these are worth anything, to help fund some new rims.

I know a full set of the gtr wheels would probably be more useful, but there might be another S13 owner that wants a tough looking set of wheels, or a 32 gts owner who would like a pair of gtr rims for the rear.

I haven't got a price in mind, so I'm open to offers.

post-13444-0-33309300-1441672078_thumb.jpeg

post-13444-0-34371600-1441672106_thumb.jpeg

post-13444-0-40717500-1441672145_thumb.jpeg

post-13444-0-45756100-1441672190_thumb.jpeg

post-13444-0-06689900-1441672231_thumb.jpeg

post-13444-0-27224900-1441672282_thumb.jpeg

Edited by s13n1
s13n1 Contributor

s13n1

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry, not an intentional bump here, just adding some additional info.

Front tyres are 205/50 Yokohama a533's with about 90+% tread.

The backs are just some cheap used tyres, they are a crappy size @ 215/60, but they are just over the wear indicators, so they're still roadworthy.

The photos were taken yesterday, all rims are even in colour, just some pics were taken in shade.

Second picture shows very small gutter scuff on the right edge. I didn't even notice it at first, just being honest here.

Although i've had these for about 8-9 years, the cars been off the road for most of that, which is why they're still in great condition.

Located Bendigo, Victoria.

$600

Edited by s13n1
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • MBS206
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • MBS206
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • MBS206
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...