Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Hope someone has the wiring diagram for the ABS module for a R33 GTS-t... I've looked everywhere and also downloaded a few service manuals which all are focused purely on the engine and not the electricals themselves.

I've found a diagram which shows how the ABS unit is connected theoretically but that's quite useless when determining what wire is what.

Finding ABS schematics for GT-R and it's Attesa systems seems to be easy, but from what I've gathered from my visual comparison is that the wiring between the GTS-t and GT-R ABS / Attesa modules are different.

This is the GT-R one, when I visually compared this diagram to the ABS module bolted under the HICAS ECU it's quite different for my GTS-t boat.

post-19425-0-55022900-1308735404.jpg

Now you're wondering why the heck do I need this wiring schematic? Well... ever seen a modern car launch with minimum slip and no throttle cut? Yes.. they actually retard timing to reduce torque instead of chopping the throttle which cuts everything.

Now, I am planning to connect my front two wheel sensors to my ECU and will be retarding timing based on x % of wheel slip (front vs. rear).. the higher the delta, the more timing is retarded... however not too much retard, because I'll end up with anti lags and bang bang all day instead lol.

I did plan to run the wires directly from the ABS sensor to my circuit (converts sine to square waves) to the ECU.. but that seems a touch messy going into the engine bay.

So yeah, help me do high 10s down the 1/4 with a stock motor RB25 :)

man that's way too much effort haha....

I'll just tap the wiring into the ABS sensor at the front... the rear speed sensor (from gearbox) is already fed back into the ECU.. just need F(RHS + LHS)

Just looks fugly if I run even more freaking wires into the engine bay.

Knowing Nissan, the wiring colour would be different from the ABS sensor plug to the rear ABS ECU.

  • 1 month later...

Let me know if this looks like it might be helpful and i can send some more screenshots or email it to you when i get home from work in the morning.

Screenshot_2015-10-14-02-20-22_zpsbf80xe

EDIT: I haven't exactly included the most helpful part of the diagram here lol but i can find all 4 wheel speed sensors and shows what pins they go to and plugs etc

Edited by 89CAL
  • 3 years later...
On 10/13/2015 at 11:22 AM, 89CAL said:

Let me know if this looks like it might be helpful and i can send some more screenshots or email it to you when i get home from work in the morning.

Screenshot_2015-10-14-02-20-22_zpsbf80xe

EDIT: I haven't exactly included the most helpful part of the diagram here lol but i can find all 4 wheel speed sensors and shows what pins they go to and plugs etc

please tell me you still have this, I've been looking for this in english for more than 10 years, to fix my abs. 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/13/2015 at 11:22 AM, 89CAL said:

Let me know if this looks like it might be helpful and i can send some more screenshots or email it to you when i get home from work in the morning.

Screenshot_2015-10-14-02-20-22_zpsbf80xe

EDIT: I haven't exactly included the most helpful part of the diagram here lol but i can find all 4 wheel speed sensors and shows what pins they go to and plugs etc

are you able to email it? I sent my email address to you.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...