Test For Coolant System Additives To Stop Leaks

[Nismo 3.2ish]

  On 14/09/2015 at 12:38 AM, XGTRX said:

So you bought everything except the coolant hoses and manifold. Is that right? And the turbo was selected for your 26 and I assume it has a .84 rear, is that correct?

Yes , paid for the Nitto Stroker, Coppermix clutch, Quaife front diff and most of the other before the build was started and added a couple of things like flex fuel sensor, but had all of the quotes before the build started.

The turbo had the .84 added at build time

I listened to like minded blokes on the SAU, asked questions, went surfing the web and got what I thought would do what I wanted.

I was going to leave the Turbo on until after the build to see how it went. It goes OK, so it stays.

After the build , the manifold was changed because it was full of cracks and holes. Had the fuel line updated and a flex tune, the results were good.

Just back to the water problem and now we will see how it goes, I think it is going through the motor some how and it will have to be pulled down before it has major damage done.

Should know tomorrow

[Nismo 3.2ish]

  On 14/09/2015 at 12:59 AM, tridentt150v said:

Simple solution here...........sell it to me!!! Of cause I will be broken hearted about the leak but I've live through it

Seriously, stick at it, its only one small nagging problem.........12 months from now you won't even remember it [well maybe a little bit].

You bad

I never give up, sometimes that can be very expensive, but life is too short not to get somethings done that you want,lol

[XGTRX]

Any news?

[tridentt150v]

Not yet, still waiting on a price for the Skyline.....thanks for asking though..............lmao!!!

And yeah interested to know as well.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

No external leaks, so not looking too good The end!

[XGTRX]

Interested to hear why. Hopefully just a gasket. Good luck mate.

[scotty nm35]

Check the head studs and try re-torquing them, I suspect one or two may have stretched as they did in the car I have here. It won't fix the problem though, if it's leaking the gasket will need to be changed anyway.

Why can't I find L19's or 625+ head bolts for the RB's? I can get both for the VQ and I suspect they are very similar anyway... Same thread M11.

[Piggaz]

Picture, post the picture!

[Hadouken]

  On 17/09/2015 at 4:59 AM, Piggaz said:

Picture, post the picture!

This means it's something atrocious doesn't it!?

[Nismo 3.2ish]

  On 17/09/2015 at 4:59 AM, Piggaz said:

Picture, post the picture!

[breaker1845]

That doesn't look good....

[Nismo 3.2ish]

  On 17/09/2015 at 2:26 PM, breaker1845 said:

That doesn't look good....

Not wrong, lol

Just something else, it will be fixed ASAP and off I go

[Hadouken]

Very disappointing.

I wonder what crd is thinking now.

[GTRNUR]

This can only be 2 things.

1. Crack in block (very unlikely though).

2. Head gasket seal issue, allowing water to leak into oil when water temp is nominal.

I recall reading your normal engine temp was 70-72 degrees. This tells me a few things. You have a Nismo thermostat, and your lower than normal engine temps are keeping your cooling system pressures down, which makes the leak less apparent.

When in fact at all times, the head gasket was leaking between layers between water and oil. When oil was up to temp, it would slowly evaporate the water away which would end up in your catch can and then vented to atmosphere as steam, or consumed by your engine via a breather system.

The head gasket leak issue was caused by the embossing in the gasket not properly compressing around the water galleries to seal. This could have been a machining issue from when the block and head were surfaced, or also could be an issue to do with material deformation caused by those heavy head studs. If properly installed, the head stud thread inserts should be recessed about 5mm from the top of the block, such that when torqued up the deck of the block does not deform. I have seen these installed level with the top of the block, by some machinists.

Only investigation will tell this tale.

My recommendation is to replace the head gasket with a stock one, o-ring the block and have a matching receiver cut into the head. Use a smear of threebond ultra viscous silicon around the water and oil galleries on the gasket, or hylomar spray it both sides. A stock gasket will accept more material deformation than a metal shim one.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

  On 17/09/2015 at 9:29 PM, Hadouken said:

Very disappointing.

I wonder what crd is thinking now.

They think it is a seperate problem to the one that has been there since the build.

I drive the car and think it is exactly the same as it has been for months, but???

[Nismo 3.2ish]

  On 17/09/2015 at 9:38 PM, GTRNUR said:

This can only be 2 things.

1. Crack in block (very unlikely though).

2. Head gasket seal issue, allowing water to leak into oil when water temp is nominal.

I recall reading your normal engine temp was 70-72 degrees. This tells me a few things. You have a Nismo thermostat, and your lower than normal engine temps are keeping your cooling system pressures down, which makes the leak less apparent.

When in fact at all times, the head gasket was leaking between layers between water and oil. When oil was up to temp, it would slowly evaporate the water away which would end up in your catch can and then vented to atmosphere as steam, or consumed by your engine via a breather system.

The head gasket leak issue was caused by the embossing in the gasket not properly compressing around the water galleries to seal. This could have been a machining issue from when the block and head were surfaced, or also could be an issue to do with material deformation caused by those heavy head studs. If properly installed, the head stud thread inserts should be recessed about 5mm from the top of the block, such that when torqued up the deck of the block does not deform. I have seen these installed level with the top of the block, by some machinists.

Only investigation will tell this tale.

My recommendation is to replace the head gasket with a stock one, o-ring the block and have a matching receiver cut into the head. Use a smear of threebond ultra viscous silicon around the water and oil galleries on the gasket, or hylomar spray it both sides. A stock gasket will accept more material deformation than a metal shim one.

Thanks for the info, it all helps

If I could pick, i'll take the #2 please, lol

Now it is a waiting game , AGAIN

[Hadouken]

So, this thread is basically my life....

Have they found the issue?

[Trex]

  On 21/09/2015 at 7:14 AM, Hadouken said:

So, this thread is basically my life....

Have they found the issue?

samsies.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

I am the same, so Fn pathetic . Got a 14 year old still at home and the car, how sad, haha

I have no info to offer and I need to know what has happened before I shoot my mouth off, guessing is not fair on anyone.

All I know is, it is back to exactly how it was after the build, the difference is now I know where the water is going and the car has not moved since. Just sitting there like a bird with a broken wing, boohoo, poor me

Cars booked in for the 12th of October, once it is in , might have a few things tweaked, cams and CR to see what happens ?

[XGTRX]

What do you mean CR.

Don't tell me you are going to up it.