Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So you bought everything except the coolant hoses and manifold. Is that right? And the turbo was selected for your 26 and I assume it has a .84 rear, is that correct?

Yes , paid for the Nitto Stroker, Coppermix clutch, Quaife front diff and most of the other before the build was started and added a couple of things like flex fuel sensor, but had all of the quotes before the build started.

The turbo had the .84 added at build time

I listened to like minded blokes on the SAU, asked questions, went surfing the web and got what I thought would do what I wanted.

I was going to leave the Turbo on until after the build to see how it went. It goes OK, so it stays.

After the build , the manifold was changed because it was full of cracks and holes. Had the fuel line updated and a flex tune, the results were good.

Just back to the water problem and now we will see how it goes, I think it is going through the motor some how and it will have to be pulled down before it has major damage done.

Should know tomorrow :/

Simple solution here...........sell it to me!!! Of cause I will be broken hearted about the leak but I've live through it :rofl2:

Seriously, stick at it, its only one small nagging problem.........12 months from now you won't even remember it [well maybe a little bit].

You bad :rolleyes:

I never give up, sometimes that can be very expensive, but life is too short not to get somethings done that you want,lol

Check the head studs and try re-torquing them, I suspect one or two may have stretched as they did in the car I have here. It won't fix the problem though, if it's leaking the gasket will need to be changed anyway.

Why can't I find L19's or 625+ head bolts for the RB's? I can get both for the VQ and I suspect they are very similar anyway... Same thread M11.

  • Like 1

This can only be 2 things.

1. Crack in block (very unlikely though).

2. Head gasket seal issue, allowing water to leak into oil when water temp is nominal.

I recall reading your normal engine temp was 70-72 degrees. This tells me a few things. You have a Nismo thermostat, and your lower than normal engine temps are keeping your cooling system pressures down, which makes the leak less apparent.

When in fact at all times, the head gasket was leaking between layers between water and oil. When oil was up to temp, it would slowly evaporate the water away which would end up in your catch can and then vented to atmosphere as steam, or consumed by your engine via a breather system.

The head gasket leak issue was caused by the embossing in the gasket not properly compressing around the water galleries to seal. This could have been a machining issue from when the block and head were surfaced, or also could be an issue to do with material deformation caused by those heavy head studs. If properly installed, the head stud thread inserts should be recessed about 5mm from the top of the block, such that when torqued up the deck of the block does not deform. I have seen these installed level with the top of the block, by some machinists.

Only investigation will tell this tale.

My recommendation is to replace the head gasket with a stock one, o-ring the block and have a matching receiver cut into the head. Use a smear of threebond ultra viscous silicon around the water and oil galleries on the gasket, or hylomar spray it both sides. A stock gasket will accept more material deformation than a metal shim one.

  • Like 1

Very disappointing.

I wonder what crd is thinking now.

They think it is a seperate problem to the one that has been there since the build.

I drive the car and think it is exactly the same as it has been for months, but???

  • Like 1

This can only be 2 things.

1. Crack in block (very unlikely though).

2. Head gasket seal issue, allowing water to leak into oil when water temp is nominal.

I recall reading your normal engine temp was 70-72 degrees. This tells me a few things. You have a Nismo thermostat, and your lower than normal engine temps are keeping your cooling system pressures down, which makes the leak less apparent.

When in fact at all times, the head gasket was leaking between layers between water and oil. When oil was up to temp, it would slowly evaporate the water away which would end up in your catch can and then vented to atmosphere as steam, or consumed by your engine via a breather system.

The head gasket leak issue was caused by the embossing in the gasket not properly compressing around the water galleries to seal. This could have been a machining issue from when the block and head were surfaced, or also could be an issue to do with material deformation caused by those heavy head studs. If properly installed, the head stud thread inserts should be recessed about 5mm from the top of the block, such that when torqued up the deck of the block does not deform. I have seen these installed level with the top of the block, by some machinists.

Only investigation will tell this tale.

My recommendation is to replace the head gasket with a stock one, o-ring the block and have a matching receiver cut into the head. Use a smear of threebond ultra viscous silicon around the water and oil galleries on the gasket, or hylomar spray it both sides. A stock gasket will accept more material deformation than a metal shim one.

Thanks for the info, it all helps

If I could pick, i'll take the #2 please, lol

Now it is a waiting game , AGAIN :angry:

I am the same, so Fn pathetic . Got a 14 year old still at home and the car, how sad, haha

I have no info to offer and I need to know what has happened before I shoot my mouth off, guessing is not fair on anyone.

All I know is, it is back to exactly how it was after the build, the difference is now I know where the water is going and the car has not moved since. Just sitting there like a bird with a broken wing, boohoo, poor me

Cars booked in for the 12th of October, once it is in , might have a few things tweaked, cams and CR to see what happens ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...