Jump to content
SAU Community

Mandi's Daily Rig - Hma533

Mandi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mandi Contributor

Mandi

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi everyone,

Thought I'd post up a little build thread for my daily as figured it will be a good place to keep everything together and see a timeline of how it progresses.

So I've moved up to Qld and really wanted an R32 for a daily but after looking for a few months with no luck finding anything that hadn't been played with and complete shit I gave up and decided to look at 33's.

This was the first one I looked at and though I hadn't planned on buying it after inspecting it I would of been silly not to snap it up.

Got it for a very reasonable price with rego and a RWC. 150 thous kms on the clock, guards haven't been rolled, body is super straight, all the panels line up, the doors open and shut nicely, has good condition carpet and seats, no cracks in the dash, engine is nice and healthy (and stock woo), no rust or noisy/crunchy driveline.

It's a 93 RB25det manual, the only mods it has is a boost gauge, head unit, exhaust and a T piece though it's still running factory boost, boot lip, rims and weathershields.

post-39350-0-31812300-1442132147_thumb.jpg

post-39350-0-38074400-1442132150_thumb.jpg

I have a 180sx which is my non rego'd track car so I'm not looking for any power upgrades for the 33 just after a nice looking streeter that I can enjoy so I'm pretty happy with the base I have to work with :)

I'm slowly mulling over what rim/stye etc I'm going to go with, I think 33's get a really bad wrap due to how they get styled sometimes and are a huge bag of potential (having owned 2x 180's, 2x s14's, 2x 33's, 1x silvia, 1x 2jz soarer and 1x aw11 mr2 I believe I can say the 33 is a very underrated car)

Anyway the first thing I've done is bought a very hektic shift knob, I know I need to calm down with my crazy mods jumping right in the deep end :P The one that was in there was some horrid autotechnica monstrosity.

post-39350-0-78596800-1442132128_thumb.jpg

Then I bought a new window reg for my passenger side drivers window, I pulled the door trim off and found that one of the plastic wheels had broken and it would keep coming off the runner. I've never replaced a reg/armature before but much too my delight it was a pretty straightforward process only took about an hour and a half from door trim on to removing the window and old reg to fitting back in, now it works good as new!

post-39350-0-08269200-1442132130_thumb.jpg

post-39350-0-45701500-1442132136_thumb.jpg

Next on my list I ordered a set of custom plates, I've never had custom plates before so am pretty excited to own a pair now, I was driving along one day and thinking how people and myself call 33's HMAS ships in references to the royal navy's fleet and decided to get HMA533, I checked and it was still available so immediately put them on layby :D

post-39350-0-59152700-1442132161_thumb.jpg

post-39350-0-59338300-1442131669_thumb.jpg

Anyway that's all I have really for now, once I tick something else off the list I will post it up.

Edited by Mandi
  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459649-mandis-daily-rig-hma533/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...