Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can't believe you're saying you have that many issues in your suspension but yet you're putting the shudder down to an issue with the rda rotors? Come on...

If you actually read what I wrote, these issues all came AFTER the shudder. Shuddering can and will cause excessive wear on other components in the suspension system. With that said, all of the other issues my car is now having will not cause the car to shudder under braking condition only.

Put it simply the rotors are the issue for the shudder. My rotors and my mates rotors both fitted at roughly the same time are now shuddering. Two separate cars. I can put my old DBA rotors on and the shudder goes away.

Really, you put your old DBA rotors on and the shudder went away?

As Duncan said, put a gauge on it and check the rotor for run out. Takes 10mins and you don't even need to take the wheel off the car, just jack it up.

Secondly, get a crow bar in there and lever that bad boy and check for flogged out king pin bearings. I know that's what was causing my shudder under brakes.

Really, you put your old DBA rotors on and the shudder went away?

As Duncan said, put a gauge on it and check the rotor for run out. Takes 10mins and you don't even need to take the wheel off the car, just jack it up.

Secondly, get a crow bar in there and lever that bad boy and check for flogged out king pin bearings. I know that's what was causing my shudder under brakes.

Yeah the shudder did go but they're too thin to run anymore. I hit them with some sandpaper today to take some crap off the surface and will test drive tomorrow.

I don't have a gauge and super cheap, repco and bunnings don't sell them, where can I buy one without having to wait two weeks online?

I'll jiggle the wheel tomorrow with a bar. I thought a kingpin or wheel bearing issue would cause shudder while driving.

Put it simply the rotors are the issue for the shudder. My rotors and my mates rotors both fitted at roughly the same time are now shuddering. Two separate cars. I can put my old DBA rotors on and the shudder goes away.

No the rotor shudder is the end result of a issue, as said before they get like that for a reason.

As pointed out earlier in the RDA TSB's i linked you to, if you take a moment to read through them, its mentioned that rotors get like that for a reason and the shudder is the end result, that is the rotors are damaged due to a outside influence, not the rotor physically themselves.

If you get a fouled spark plug, do you say the spark plugs are crap?

I don't have a gauge and super cheap, repco and bunnings don't sell them, where can I buy one without having to wait two weeks online?

if you were in Adelaide I would say go to Asteg. Now, in Adelaide, Asteg is the only such place that I know off the top of my head, because knowing them I don't need to know anywhere else. But I am dead sure that there would be another 10+ places in Adelaide equivalent. In Sydney, I would expect upwards of 20 such places.

I would never consider buying precision tools from Supercheap, Repco or Bunnings. Well, maybe Repco or Bunnings, if they had decent brands and not some who-flung-dung brand from god knows where in Outer Mongolia.

It might be time to start reminding the internet generation of the existence of bricks and mortar engineering suppliers and the Yellow Pages!

No the rotor shudder is the end result of a issue, as said before they get like that for a reason.

As pointed out earlier in the RDA TSB's i linked you to, if you take a moment to read through them, its mentioned that rotors get like that for a reason and the shudder is the end result, that is the rotors are damaged due to a outside influence, not the rotor physically themselves.

If you get a fouled spark plug, do you say the spark plugs are crap?

I've had a spark plug fail on me, one in 6 wouldn't fire and as such it fouled up. New plugs went in and away it went. I don't doubt that outside influence may cause rotors to get bad but sometimes it could also be a rotor issue. There was no issue prior to swapping to RDA rotors. I've read all the data from RDA when I was discussing this issue with Scott from RDA. I am happy to use the product, I'm not taking anything away from the product either but I don't appreciate companies who are always quick to blame other variables/components and never their own. Could it be something else on my car made the rotors go bad? Yes. Could it be bad rotors? Yes.

I'll go get them surfaced tomorrow. I have new castor rods coming, I have new eyelet bushings. My wheel bearings seem solid. I'm also going to order new sway bar links and bushes. I might do a caliper rebuild and if this happens again, I'm taking them back to place of purchase. Its funny, the guys at RDA even tried blaming my pads. I'm not the first skyline driver to use Remsa pads.

  • Like 1

Resurface them and bed them in properly. You need to bed in discs properly to form an even layer of pad material on them, when bedding them in do NOT come to a complete stop and give them PLENTY of cool down afterwards before stopping.

  • Like 1

I would never consider buying precision tools from Supercheap, Repco or Bunnings. Well, maybe Repco or Bunnings, if they had decent brands and not some who-flung-dung brand from god knows where in Outer Mongolia.

It might be time to start reminding the internet generation of the existence of bricks and mortar engineering suppliers and the Yellow Pages!

Quoted for truth

If you're in Sydney, go to Hare and Forbes - they sell Mitutoyo stuff and usually at good prices (thought call them first as they tend not to carry a lot in stock - usually only a couple of days though). Beware buying Mitutoyo online, as there are now a lot of Chinese fakes on the market. Don't let Hare and Forbes talk you into buying Measurmax brand. It's cheap for a reason. Probably decent for the money you pay, but for a little more $$ Mitutoyo shits on it for quality.

You'll need a decent quality mag base as well. I bought a Noga base with articulated swivel arm last year - it's a fantastic bit of kit. Buy good quality gear and look after it, and it will last you a lifetime.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I do have their “Nissanie Motorsports Co.” vin plates, but I am curious if anyone would have more info on them. Like how many cars they’ve imported and whatnot
    • Been a long while since i have updated this money pit lol.  Have had a few tune related issues with the car, first blowing the frost plug out the back of the head and then blowing the headgasket 3 months later, which has now been retuned and sorted. Done a few little changes along the way as well, i wasn't happy with the wheel and brake setup, so start of last year i managed to get myself a set of r35 brakes and nismo lmgt4 18x10.5 +15 Upgraded to now running a Precision Gen 2 6870 with a 1.15ar, to be honest felt more like a downgrade as the car feels much lazier around town compared to the Gen2 6466 previously. 0761719E-5683-43F7-BD3B-4BD94335DFF4.mov
    • Hi there, i am currently using the Elmers Racing Billet merge collector, we are using sch40 tubing and 1.5" ID, no cracks so far. however if i was to do it again, i would go sch10 with 1.25" runners
    • I haven't touched the turbos so might need to look at that 👍 Appreciated 🙏
    • If you haven't replaced the OEM turbos, replace them sooner than later. I have seen recent pictures of what OEM ceramic turbo failure can do in an RB26 and it will make a 10k AUD budget look like a joke. Single vs twins have been done to death on this forum. If your turbos haven't fallen apart you can probably send yours off to Hypergear for rebuild. The journal bearing option will have more turbo lag but it's a good bit cheaper. I would probably go for ball bearing CHRA but keep in mind ball bearing turbos are more particular about oil pressure/flow.
×
×
  • Create New...