Jump to content
SAU Community

Welp, all done now...

Knytestorme
 Share

Recommended Posts

Knytestorme Contributor

Knytestorme

Posted
Posted

managed to find a 4 door 1993 GTS-T for $10k, took it out to Ed to check over after seeing the recomendations about him here, and all passed with just some power steering leek issues.

Looking forward once the changeover is done to meeting up for track/drag-days and putting her through her paces.

Now on the agenda is finding a decent bodykit, since veilside don't seem to make one for the 4 door.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45966-welp-all-done-now/
Share on other sites
Aurora Mentor

Aurora

Posted
Posted

Wow, that's nice and clean, congrats mate.

Welcome to the forums also.

Look forward to meeting you, seeing the car about.

Look at the Impul kit for the 4-door. It's a really clean simple kit, and it also has a piece that goes around the rear lights, sets them off nicely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45966-welp-all-done-now/#findComment-934457
Share on other sites
Knytestorme Contributor

Knytestorme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nothing really done to it atm, cd stacker, braided break lines (might need replacing for rego), 3" exhaust (same), jap coilover shocks, dark tint (same, but has papers for the work that it complies as was done in aus to replace way dark original tint) but other than that is stock standard from what I or Ed could tell.

Major things that I can tell are it has had a slight bingle in front passenger side of skirt but just a little scratched and paint damage to it and it's an auto, so will have to find somewhere that can do a conversion at some point in the future.

As for why it was so cheap, I can only go on the guys words that he just had no more use for it any more and it was sitting round doing nothing. From what we could tell on the check it's all fine, engine running almost perfect at 97% efficiency and good CO2, CO and O2 from the pipe with no oil burning so no real mechanical issues, and REVS comes up clean too based on the VIN on it, also has both the blue original plate and the green compliance plate with no weld marks round them, no tar on the underbody to indicate crash repairs.....I'm taking it as just managing to snag a bargain for the body shape I actually want and not looking a gift in the mouth :)

Aurora, thanks for the advice, will look into it but was going to go for something non-simple, such as widebody and agressive front/rear style, hence looking to Veilside first....might also look to J-Racing and New-Gel to make something custom if I can't find anything else that takes my fancy.

Look forward to meeting up a few people too, I have lots to learn again now as to ECU's, turbo upgrades, etc as well as the handling and driving...haven';t driven a RWD in about 15 years :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45966-welp-all-done-now/#findComment-934566
Share on other sites
Knytestorme Contributor

Knytestorme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mainly looking at an manual over an auto not for perforance reasons but I just like manual's as they make it seem like doing more than sitting back and being on autopilot (though I do like to be able to set a gear instead of hearing the auto try to decide which gear it wants to be in and getting confused)......might change my mind over time though when I get back to using it, since I haven't driven an auto in the same time as a RWD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45966-welp-all-done-now/#findComment-934711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • Millerman
      Jdm toll card reader talky box

      By Millerman · Posted

      I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      I'd be lost without it!
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • DraftySquash
      RB25DET Engine Oil Dipstick Length

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...