Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Throwing this on here to see what you think, Engine was bone stock with bolt ons.

Car had covered approx 100,000 Miles, Mix of KMS and miles so no true idea.

I ran round in the car stock for approx 10k miles my self and all was well, Super silent, Made good power, Burnt no oil etc

After the car was rebuilt i fitted a new water pump, Single turbo kit and all other supporting mods

Car was running fine, Sat at usual oil pressure on tickover (Just below middle on stock gauge)

Has it mapped gradually for 1.2 Bar of boost on a HX35 12cm with no problems, Until my brand new turbo failed. Bearing collapse.

Got a replacement sorted, And for piece of mind i flushed the oil with 4 lots of 5w-30 (Only on the 3rd oil change did i run the car gently round the block, the other times where purely tickover)

Changed for a generic 5w-40 fully and carried on

At this point the car developed a light tick, And using a stethoscope identified it was one of the exhaust lifters. Stupidly i ignored this and drove the car. Cue 50kms later and on hot tickover the oil light came on, As well as my gauge dropping to zero. Blipping the throttle and driving it the gauge read normal.

Got home, Dropped the oil immediately to find a very fine metal content in the oil. f**k,

Pulled off the rocker to find it had cracked a bucket, Shim rattling about hence the noise.

Here are some photos anyway.

Also as a result of the oil contamination, It has scored all the bearings in the bottom end (Driving the car obviuosly never helped)

20150905_170035_zpsuh0hpwqd.jpg

20150905_170035_zpsuh0hpwqd.jpg

20150905_170035_zpsuh0hpwqd.jpg

Now i have a few ideas, Oil pump failed which in turn killed the lifter, Small fragments then got chewed up and killed the bottom end.

Other one is the lifter failed,, Killed the pump, Killed the bearings

Third idea is turbo bearings killed the pump, killing the rest in turn.

Or lastly the oil pressure problem was purely a dodgy sender and the rest of the problems came about due to the turbo?

Would like to note there was no over revs, Missed gears or any particular hard use. Purely a few boost runs.

Any input would be great!

I Will also be building another engine out of a stock neo, So ideas on what to go for on a 600hp street car taking to regular track days would be nice, Idea at the moment is spool rebuild kit (Rods, pistons, bearings and headgasket. Along with arp bolts)

Or do i throw a stroker in there? Surely its not needed?

And another question, Are the 25NEO Buckets the same diameter as the 26 ones? Wouldnt mind converting to shim under bucket if possible... Again if its needed!

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/
Share on other sites

Even those fine particles will be filtered out before doing bearing damage most likely, unless your filter was bypassing.

I suspect the oil pump was faulty which caused the other issues. What caused the failure who knows, but it would have had to fit through the mesh in the pickup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/#findComment-7604492
Share on other sites

No external cooler etc was added, All stock on that side. After initial turbo failure i flushed the car on tickover with a 5w30 semi 3 times to try clear any shite left over from the bearing on the turbo. Was told this was too thin and could cause damage but surely this is bullshit when running it on tickover?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/#findComment-7605637
Share on other sites

Think its just a coincidence to be honest. The cracked bucket does worry me though as the next engine will be a NEO. Want to fit new springs and retainers but cant see uprated buckets anywhere. Or info on converting to shim under bucket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/#findComment-7607371
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...