Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25neo Failure

Toff

By Toff,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Throwing this on here to see what you think, Engine was bone stock with bolt ons.

Car had covered approx 100,000 Miles, Mix of KMS and miles so no true idea.

I ran round in the car stock for approx 10k miles my self and all was well, Super silent, Made good power, Burnt no oil etc

After the car was rebuilt i fitted a new water pump, Single turbo kit and all other supporting mods

Car was running fine, Sat at usual oil pressure on tickover (Just below middle on stock gauge)

Has it mapped gradually for 1.2 Bar of boost on a HX35 12cm with no problems, Until my brand new turbo failed. Bearing collapse.

Got a replacement sorted, And for piece of mind i flushed the oil with 4 lots of 5w-30 (Only on the 3rd oil change did i run the car gently round the block, the other times where purely tickover)

Changed for a generic 5w-40 fully and carried on

At this point the car developed a light tick, And using a stethoscope identified it was one of the exhaust lifters. Stupidly i ignored this and drove the car. Cue 50kms later and on hot tickover the oil light came on, As well as my gauge dropping to zero. Blipping the throttle and driving it the gauge read normal.

Got home, Dropped the oil immediately to find a very fine metal content in the oil. f**k,

Pulled off the rocker to find it had cracked a bucket, Shim rattling about hence the noise.

Here are some photos anyway.

Also as a result of the oil contamination, It has scored all the bearings in the bottom end (Driving the car obviuosly never helped)

20150905_170035_zpsuh0hpwqd.jpg

20150905_170035_zpsuh0hpwqd.jpg

20150905_170035_zpsuh0hpwqd.jpg

Now i have a few ideas, Oil pump failed which in turn killed the lifter, Small fragments then got chewed up and killed the bottom end.

Other one is the lifter failed,, Killed the pump, Killed the bearings

Third idea is turbo bearings killed the pump, killing the rest in turn.

Or lastly the oil pressure problem was purely a dodgy sender and the rest of the problems came about due to the turbo?

Would like to note there was no over revs, Missed gears or any particular hard use. Purely a few boost runs.

Any input would be great!

I Will also be building another engine out of a stock neo, So ideas on what to go for on a 600hp street car taking to regular track days would be nice, Idea at the moment is spool rebuild kit (Rods, pistons, bearings and headgasket. Along with arp bolts)

Or do i throw a stroker in there? Surely its not needed?

And another question, Are the 25NEO Buckets the same diameter as the 26 ones? Wouldnt mind converting to shim under bucket if possible... Again if its needed!

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Even those fine particles will be filtered out before doing bearing damage most likely, unless your filter was bypassing.

I suspect the oil pump was faulty which caused the other issues. What caused the failure who knows, but it would have had to fit through the mesh in the pickup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/#findComment-7604492
Share on other sites
Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No external cooler etc was added, All stock on that side. After initial turbo failure i flushed the car on tickover with a 5w30 semi 3 times to try clear any shite left over from the bearing on the turbo. Was told this was too thin and could cause damage but surely this is bullshit when running it on tickover?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/#findComment-7605637
Share on other sites
Toff Contributor

Toff

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Think its just a coincidence to be honest. The cracked bucket does worry me though as the next engine will be a NEO. Want to fit new springs and retainers but cant see uprated buckets anywhere. Or info on converting to shim under bucket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459736-rb25neo-failure/#findComment-7607371
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Car Rotisserie

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...