Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm hoping that someone can give me some insight as to what cars can be 'practically' (as opposed to theoretically, or feasibly) imported from the UK.

By theoretically - I'm aware of the long list of candidates that exists on the SEVS register...but whether or not a RAWS has done the necessary tests, and has plates, and complies on behalf of the public is another thing.

Similarly - I'm aware of the fact that the Aussie dollar is not in the best shape for importing anything at the moment.....but I'm not trying to do any sort of economic analysis here.

Practically speaking - what cars can be imported under SEVS, for which RAWS exist, and have plates which they'll use to comply cars on behalf of the public?

My guess is the following;

Aston DB7 V12

Aston Vanquish V12

Maserati Spyder 4200

Maserati Coupe 4200

Volkswagen Scirocco Type R

Is that it?

Also, I've heard that some people have imported Infiniti from the UK, rather than Skylines from Japan, due to advantages such as cruise control, English Navi / GPS, better sound systems......although the specifics were largely over my head.

Whilst the V35 is clearly a G35, and the V36 is clearly a G37.........what about the Skyline 'recreational vehicles' (Crossovers?). Is it legal to import all variants, of all ages - or is this restricted by model, fuel type, drive type (2WD or 4WD) etc.

Any knowledge that can be provided would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Foibles

Well, in a legal sense, there is no restriction about the country of origin for a model. Practically almost everything comes from japan because the buying and importing infrastructure is in place, and the total costs are much lower than coming from the UK.

So its the same rules as always, if its on the SEVS register it COULD happen, as long as you can find a RAWS willing to comply it. A fair few top end cars come other than the usual skylines we all think of.

If the SEVS list shows a Nissan Skyline then you CAN NOT import an Infiniti G35 instead as they are tested against the exact specific original car. You can import an Infiniti FX50, etc because they are specifically approved for the Infiniti models.

With regards to finding a suitable workshop with compliance for various models, you should search on the following website then call the workshop to confirm as some only do in-house compliance for their own cars and will not do private work for you ... http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubSearch.asp

Considering the poor Aussie Dollar at the moment and the rampant disregard for regulations by many importers who massively wind back mileage, import cars with known accident history and other things which are not really allowed, it means that you will be trying to import a genuine nice car but comparing prices to other importers who have what appear to be similar cars in Australia selling for lower prices. What I am saying is that if you are looking to buy a car for yourself then you will get a better car by importing directly but maybe not cheaper than buying locally in Australia, however you will know what you are buying and that it's right. If you are trying to import just to resell for profit then you will find it very hard to buy at the right price to have it landed here cheap enough to make any money unless you are doing dodgy and illegal things too!

Of course this is just my 2c worth on the matter, although it comes from more than 15 years experience importing cars and current experience being my full time job sourcing cars for people all over the world.

Edited by kakimoto33

If you genuinely want something like that then please let me know as I specialise in the rare, unique and slightly odd cars .. although I do all normal modern Japanese stuff too ;)

why would you be shot for that? Is this the sort of car you mean?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Volkswagen-Golf-1988/SSE-AD-3428814/?Cr=0

Pardon my naivety, but what's this car got in its corner that makes it so desirable?​

(and also pardon if such a link is not au fait - please ask mods to delete if need be)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...