Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys after some help.

I've just installed -5 turbos, flowed exhaust manifolds and tomei dump pipes.

Started the car fine, it began to hunt at idle. Took it for a drive and drove fine except for when coming to a stop or rev when it would stall.

The car was idling fine before the install.

The engine has tomei poncams as well.

Checked all vauum lines.

Standard ECU

Was thinking possibly need bigger AFM's as mine are stock.

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers

Edited by cashie484
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459771-rb26-hunting-after-5-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Doesn't have extra airflow at idle, will have less. Go back and check for air leaks between the engine and the turbos. Mostly, have a fiddle with the cold air idle valve which is under the intake plenum. The Poncams will reduce the amount of air at idle and you need to increase it a little which is effectively how closed the bypass valve is when warm.

Guessing Poncam B's?

Edited by djr81
  • Like 1

I have a power fc which I installed but still had the same issue.

It drives fine, just doesn't idle properly

Also stalls after revving, possibly aac?

Is there a way to reset an Apexi Power FC without the hand controller?

Yea Poncam B!

Edited by cashie484

Yea I have been doing some research on adjusting the aac.

Just seems weird though it had the cams in before and was idling fine, a little rough but wan't hunting.

Sounds like I need to get in and adjust that then!

I have a power fc which I installed but still had the same issue.

It drives fine, just doesn't idle properly

Also stalls after revving, possibly aac?

Is there a way to reset an Apexi Power FC without the hand controller?

Yea Poncam B!

Yes same same and yes but you need to plug in stuff to hook it up to your laptop with the right software.

You have a leak somewhere. Regardless of ECU, if you don't fix the leak it's going to try and hold idle to compensate for the air leak.

Adjusting AAC or swapping anything else won't work, only masking the issue. Find the leak and fix it.

I've replaced turbos on my car and starts first time with no idle issues, there is something else you've missed.

Have you done anything with the BOV system at all? Forgot to connect something?

Edited by breaker1845

Its dead easy to fix so just fix it first. Most importantly post your dyno results after it is tuned. I know a bloke who wants to see the -5 poncam combination with a functioning boost controller on 98 octane. What are you running for boost control?

check the rb26 dyno thread. There is literally hundreds of people running this setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...