Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so after years of having a daggy seat and not wanting to fork out $$$ for another that's not much better and will probably tear in a year or so I finally had an idea how to fix it like new and for minimal $$$

post-68505-0-80369400-1442490059_thumb.jpg

What you'll need:-

a spare passengers seat (their hardly used so cheap, easy to get and in good nick

tools -->post-68505-0-50174200-1442490134_thumb.jpg

spanners are 14mm and 17mm

a mate to hold stuff and pass the beers


first grab your old daggy drivers seat

pull the headrest out, belt ya mate with it and through it away (unless its better than your old one)

wind the wings right out (helps when refitting the cover later)

pull of the knob that adjusts the wings, theirs a clip like the old windows winders just poke it out with the slotted screwdriver

post-68505-0-88291000-1442490218_thumb.jpg

Next is the panel on the back with the pocket

post-68505-0-07376300-1442490262_thumb.jpg

squeeze ya hand in the bottom and use the needle nose to close the clips and pop em out (you can afford to break 2 on each seat)

remove the white plastic retaining strips around the edge. I used the slotted screwdriver to push em of from the back

post-68505-0-15419500-1442490287_thumb.jpg

open the sides up like

post-68505-0-79510000-1442490307_thumb.jpg

undo the 2 14mm bolts hidden behind the foam

post-68505-0-13408300-1442490326_thumb.jpg

and the 17mm on the other side

post-68505-0-98485900-1442490337_thumb.jpg

again with the needle nose spread and remove the 3 wire clips holding the cloth to the frame. open them up to a "C" shape to help squash them back on later.

post-68505-0-53962600-1442490364_thumb.jpg

slowly work the foam from the bottom half of the frame (its not glued just stuck with age and preasure so comes of easy)

post-68505-0-49018500-1442490385_thumb.jpg

Stick ya hand down between the springs and foam and pop out the 2 guides for the headrest

post-68505-0-18483400-1442490418_thumb.jpg

then pry the rest of the foam from the frame and remove it from the rest

post-68505-0-90023700-1442490441_thumb.jpg

tell ya mate to grab a beer for you

take beer from mate then belt him with the old seat cover

repeat for your donor passengers seat

reassemble your drivers frame with the passengers cover. the process is pretty much the reverse of above. just make sure the frame sits in the cover properly, you get the guides for the headrest around the right way

post-68505-0-62132400-1442490471_thumb.jpg

and hook the cover over the 2 lowest tabs behind the rear pocket

post-68505-0-63524300-1442490500_thumb.jpg

bung seat back in car and park yourself in it while ya mate grabs you another beer to enjoy a nice defect free drivers seat

this was with R33 gtst seats but should be pretty similar for R32 and R34 id say

cheers

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...