Jump to content
SAU Community

Wyn
 Share

Recommended Posts

The motor I've received looks like they've been removed, so can someone confirm 100% if the 2 factory 2mm oil restrictors in the upper face of the block have any sort of check valve in or below them to stop the oil from flowing back when the motor is turned off?

Are the restrictors just pressed into empty oil way feeds with nothing below them?

One site says yes and must not be removed, but am also told nothing below them so no problem if removed and replaced?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok cheers, guess knocking 2 new restrictors in should do the trick- I hope lol

Angry, am using a Neo (and retaining vvt) head on a 3.4 bottom end with Nitto pump so plan to blank the rear and 1.5 in the front

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So does it not make the top end run a bit dry when on idle and cruise considering stock is 2mm, in another thread someone mentioned after blanking the rear they developed a noise which might of been from it running a bit dry at the back, but im not sure that's enough evidence having only one person out of probably alot who havn't had issues.

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

XK, How does the 2.6 get away with only the one feed and the other blanked ?

Angry, From what I gather those running hydraulic lifters (GTST head) need to retain a larger oil feed to keep the lifters pumped.

A Neo being solid lifters doesn't require as much, aka RB26 style feed with one blanked

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an RB30 with Nitto pump and use 2 x 1mm restrictors, no blank, by blanking one off you creat a air pocket under it

With the 26 head used, the 26 block has the rear one plugged factory so on 30 blocks using the 26 head you plug the rear one, Nissan sell the solid plug for around $5.

I never put the new restricor over the old one on a rebuild, in most cases the engine may have a history of a spun bearing, crud collects under the factory restictor so i run a self tapped screw into it and used a shifter under the head of the screw and knock it out so i can clean under the stock restrictor.

You would be surprised how much crap is under it.

photo(21)

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Depends on pump and use

Haha yeah i have that exact link and printed out earlier today.. im using an N1 pump will be mostly street and odd track day so i thought blanking rear and 1.5mm in front would be ideal as stated. Will have extended baffled sump also and already have mines baffled rocker covers with custom baffled catch can (currently on my 26) aswell as getting the rear drain/vent on the rear of the head.. just wanted to see who would second my thought. Seeing that 26 factory is blocked rear and 2mm in the front
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha yeah i have that exact link and printed out earlier today.. im using an N1 pump will be mostly street and odd track day so i thought blanking rear and 1.5mm in front would be ideal as stated. Will have extended baffled sump also and already have mines baffled rocker covers with custom baffled catch can (currently on my 26) aswell as getting the rear drain/vent on the rear of the head.. just wanted to see who would second my thought. Seeing that 26 factory is blocked rear and 2mm in the front

Forget the rear "drain" on the head - waste of time, money and space.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey man Thank you! Excited to be here Mostly 4 doors ER, HRs not much of 2 doors, I personally know 3 guys that have coupes And yeah, they are some BNRs, BCNRs, not that much left, some of them went to EU.   Thanks, actually the conversion was done by previous owner, I wanted to get it even when it was 20DE AT cause the chassis was taken care well but getting it with MT turbo wasdefinitely an additional pleasure 😃   
    • Hey guys   I'm pretty sure this question was asked before, I had an HR34 before, got another one again and I never gave much attention to this but wanted to ask you guys about dropping or pushing bonnet problem. ER, HR got pretty heavy steel bonnets, I'm sure S chassis and other R chassis gens also got heavy bonnets. I used to push it after I gently put it down on the latch but I saw some videos guys dropping it from 30-40 cm and some say it's more reliable way to make sure it's safely closed. I let it drop a couple times from like 30-40 cm and it's locked no problem but it gives me that bad OCD feeling after that that something is damaged lol, the bonnet rubbers is there, guess they handle that little fall energy well and the latch itself is what stops the bonnet right?  Talked to other Skyline owners, some say both methods are fine, some against dropping it by any means, some drop all the time no problem. So I'm like confused if I was doing it wrong or not and if I already messed up something. ...and jealous of my friend's Z, dropping aluminum bonnet feels so much right and better haha    
    • Hi Jay! Welcome to  ! Are there many Skylines over there? Does the ---> mean you have converted it to turbo and manual? Very cool.
    • Hello there 😃 Cheers from Kazakhstan to everyone, got myself HR34, RB20DE AT ---> RB20DET MT   Nothing fancy, mostly stock, had an HR34 before but the goal was finding a rust free one (impossible), but this one is definitely cleaner than the last one 😃    
×
×
  • Create New...