Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Wanted to get some suggestions on troubleshooting fuel cut problem.

R32 GTR

Mods:

-Blitz Access ECU

-T517Z 8cm turbos

-full exhaust, no cats, HKS Hi-Power

-Greddy/Trust Dumps

-Blitz Intake Pods

-ARC Blow Off Valve

-Larger FMIC w/ Piping

-Stock Fuel

-Stock Boost Restrictor still intact. 10lbs. of boost.

-Stock boost controller

Symptoms:

When going full tilt, turbos will spool, and boost will build. Will rev to 4k then bounce as if it's hitting the rev limiter around 4500-5k rpm. I can hear the BOV "sneeze" multiple times. 1st gear can hit close to redline then bounce the tach needle, 2-3-4-5 gears going full throttle will display the aforementioned symptoms, build boost then bounce the needle at 4.5-5k rpms.

Other than that the car drives flawlessly around town.

Any suggestions as to why this can be? Fuel upgrade? Bad coils,CAS at higher RPM? All of the above...

Two points:

I believe the Blitz Access ECU is not tunable so about as much use as a Mines ECU or a paper weight.

You say "stock boost" but if you have bigger than stock turbos you will be moving a lot more air at the same boost figure.

The answer is get a proper ecu and a tune.

Thanks for the reply KiwiRS4T,

The points you've made makes sense. I guess I'll look into upping the fuel system then, if I'm gonna need a standalone and a tune, I might as well take the restrictor out and tune it for a couple more lbs. of boost.

The obvious thing to do is stop guessing and get on a Dyno. At the very least get a wideband.

Before you know it you might kill your engine the way you are going.

And I vote get rid of that ecu.

Did the car ever run nicely?

insert chipped ecu (with rev limit and speed cut removed no other features) all problems will disappear... i wish.... i could do 30 cars a day instead of 3.

Not sure how all these ecus still surface after so many years... i thought id binned enough for everyone.

  • Like 2

The obvious thing to do is stop guessing and get on a Dyno. At the very least get a wideband.

Before you know it you might kill your engine the way you are going.

And I vote get rid of that ecu.

Did the car ever run nicely?

The car runs just fine, until you full throttle it. I'll strap it to a dyno after I find an Ecu for it, and see what happens, I knew I'd have to get a standalone sooner or later. FWIW the stock twins were smoking a couple months ago, was going to rebuild them but found freshly rebuilt T517Z's from this forum. It was worth buying at the time, if I bought from the states it would've been much more expensive. I wasn't expecting to do a major turbo upgrade like the T517Z's, but I'll go ahead and get the upgrades to back them up and keep the motor healthy. I appreciate the help.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The more I think about it, the more I should probably go with a genuine Bride seat and rail set up. But damn the $$$ for a driver and passenger seat + rails!
    • From what I understand, stock internals should hold out for a while even if you run 500 at the crank, no? Especially if you don't run a modern turbo setup that reaches power and torque much earlier than the original twins. My engine isn't unopened either, it has N1 Pumps, head oil restrictor, new crank and cams, new piston rings, ARP head studs and Cometic headgasket along with 2860-5s. Considering everything is healthy this should run fine for a while I assume. Once my engine stops leaking shit everywhere, it'll be tuned to 370 crank first anyway, because I need to legalize the turbo setup. If I end up needing a new engine because my block actually has an issue, even though GTSboy was adamant that the whole porous block story is nonsense, before putting an engine in I'm probably gonna take care of the weakspots.
    • Hah, I have no issues with what you are doing whatsoever! You clearly know what you are getting yourself into. It's just funny reading things like this. "What's that noise?" "Oh, that's normal. That's just the engine not getting any oil. Nothing to worry about. It'll go away in a moment"  
    • Yeah I'm keeping an eye on it and might take it out as a once off if this doesn't fully charge. I did some research that said it's normal in equalisation charging. Voltage I thought was 20+ (faulty battery in multimeter) but now its on 15.9v, the max it should go to is 16.2v as per the manual. I'll provide an update once hopefully it's actually fully charged and in float mode. Waiting for it to go to 16.2v and not higher and see what happens. What I suspect has happened is that even though it's not an old battery, I did leave the car turned off for almost 4 weeks at one point then left it off for another 2 weeks which might have erroded the battery and is taking a long time to do this equlisation charge.
    • I wouldn't be using the seats a lot since it's on Historic rego and will not be driven a lot, however I also don't want to fork out 3k for something that won't last. Havent looked at BRZ seats, aiming for something of the same era I did speak to him on the phone once, and I do see your point haha. How many kms do you think you drove before they started wearing out? Just had a look at yours, certainly looking for a reclinable version. The Brides don't look too bad! I would still like to sit in one just to make sure it's what I'm after.    Thanks for the replies fellas. 
×
×
  • Create New...