Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you checked your fuel filter since Pete?
How long you been running stock stuff for?
Are you sure the factory rubber hose has never been replaced on your 32?

So so many variables involved it's not really as simple as that ;)

Was only planning to change external rubber lines as they would have suffered the most exposed to the elements.

Yep all i want to know is how many meters of gates barricade to buy. Lol love this forum such entertainment!

From the Gates website:

" 85 percent Ethanol with 15 percent gasoline is not an aggressive fuel with respect to rubber compounds"

Just make sure you change your filter early and then again before much longer.

Factory lines are fine, if they have been replaced then go e85 hose just to be sure but the factory nissan stuff is fine.... mine sat for months on end and had been running e85 for years all on the oem hoses.

Probably done 100-150 E85 conversions with no issues on nissans with factory OEM hose

  • Like 1

I believe the cause of problems like the black goo with e85 was too high a fuel temperature, not stock rubber parts being deteriorated. I,e having an in-tank fuel pump and flowing a lot of fuel raises the temperature of the fuel to the point its almost boiling and during the spray pattern something burns of wrong and sticks to the injector. Out of tank pumps with cooler flowing fuel did not have this goo problem as much. I dont think it was ever a case of rubber melting.

Rust on the other hand...Has anyone opened up their engine after years of e85 and checked for rust?

How do you explain one injector only out of 6 having black gunk on it?

How does your explanation of hot fuel causing gunk to come out of suspension explain why the injector tips build up, and not the internal filter?

My fuel system has been hot, damn hot many times at the track, and on the dyno, I have never had an issue other than having to re-prime the fuel system to start. Never any rust either. I guess the Hydroscopic nature of the fuel doesn't matter at all seeing it's only in the tank for a month or two in my case, in fact it makes sure there is no water in the tank at all.

Not having a go, but all these misconceptions aren't helping unless you have some kind of proof, as evidence I have seen first hand rules them all out.

No offense taken scotty, I am never bothered about things like people "having a go" or not.

I don't claim to know any of this for a fact, just throwing out bits of information which may end up being helpful to some. I can only guess as to why one of the 6 injectors is doing it, maybe it had a slightly different spray pattern to begin with, or maybe it was just in the right place at the right time. Maybe in the same way you get vortexes within certain areas of a swimming pool, maybe you get the same within the fuel rail and the location matters, not just for streams but for temperature difference as well.

As for why the tip and not the filter, well the tip is where the action happens, and the fuel gets atomized, experiences a pressure change, temperature change, mixes with a new environment etc. Prior to that its all pretty uniform stuff, kind of like how a Volcano only starts to smoke and clog up at the tip and not as its making its way through the earth.

The only reason I brought this up is I was personally curious as to what the reason was injectors were dying out with e85, which happened to me on a number of times, and there is 100s of theories and the exact number of counter theories to those theories, but what I came across that was most striking was that the people, all other factors identical, people with inline fuel pumps were having the issue much more than than people with external fuel pumps.

All the components and materials were identical, the only variable changed was fuel temperature at the injector tip, which was always higher with the in take pumps, and it coincided more with the goo. I haven't confirmed any of this it just made the most sense to me so I thought I would share it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
×
×
  • Create New...