Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.

just looking for any expressions of interest.

and/or your thoughts on what the below might be a reasonable sale price.

i have my very first car which has seen literal blood sweet and tears.

have had this for many many years and couldn't bring myself to get rid of her. but....... it is time..

grand plans of restoring her. but don't have time, space, coin or space.. not to mention i am lazy... lol.

1980 datsun 200b.

what is in it.

  • fj20 na
  • 5spd box
  • front end brake conversion. V8 commodore calipers and magna rotors.
  • S3 bluebird disc rear end.
  • surge tank
  • fuel pumps low and high pressure
  • microtech M/LTX 8 - direct fire ignition.
  • pulsar radiator
  • 2.1/4 exhaust that will definitely need replacing.

currently hasn't been started for years. needs a new fuel line to the surge tank as it perished and split.

was running fine when pulled off the road. had purchased a R33 and she was no longer needed.

kept it rego'd within the ACT 12mths rules. but let it slip. car has never been engineered with this engine. so would be good for a project. or to transplant out.

before it was taken off the road. it had a top end rebuild done.

post-52730-0-78565800-1442886826_thumb.jpg

had a look at it a few weeks back to try and get it to start. couldn't get a socket onto the crank to try and move it. however. was able to turn the crank by hand. so isn't seized.

will probably look into getting it to kick over in a few weeks.

but if people could let me know if that is even worth my while or anyone now days would be interested in something like this. that'd be great.

cheers guys.

How much you chasing? I may know someone whose interested.

honestly i'm not really sure atm..

am trying to gauge from some responses.

being the sentimental attachement... 1 BILLION DOLLARS!!!!!!!! ;)

realistically. not sure. :D

Edited by dazman

Honestly I'd say bugger all maybe $1000. You'll probably see a better return parting it out (and that's probably what any buyer would do anyway).

thanks for the advice on that mate..

i have no illusions about this getting restored. but i need to move the whole thing in one hit. rather than parting it out.

the joys of lack of space..

:starwars:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...