Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.

just looking for any expressions of interest.

and/or your thoughts on what the below might be a reasonable sale price.

i have my very first car which has seen literal blood sweet and tears.

have had this for many many years and couldn't bring myself to get rid of her. but....... it is time..

grand plans of restoring her. but don't have time, space, coin or space.. not to mention i am lazy... lol.

1980 datsun 200b.

what is in it.

  • fj20 na
  • 5spd box
  • front end brake conversion. V8 commodore calipers and magna rotors.
  • S3 bluebird disc rear end.
  • surge tank
  • fuel pumps low and high pressure
  • microtech M/LTX 8 - direct fire ignition.
  • pulsar radiator
  • 2.1/4 exhaust that will definitely need replacing.

currently hasn't been started for years. needs a new fuel line to the surge tank as it perished and split.

was running fine when pulled off the road. had purchased a R33 and she was no longer needed.

kept it rego'd within the ACT 12mths rules. but let it slip. car has never been engineered with this engine. so would be good for a project. or to transplant out.

before it was taken off the road. it had a top end rebuild done.

post-52730-0-78565800-1442886826_thumb.jpg

had a look at it a few weeks back to try and get it to start. couldn't get a socket onto the crank to try and move it. however. was able to turn the crank by hand. so isn't seized.

will probably look into getting it to kick over in a few weeks.

but if people could let me know if that is even worth my while or anyone now days would be interested in something like this. that'd be great.

cheers guys.

How much you chasing? I may know someone whose interested.

honestly i'm not really sure atm..

am trying to gauge from some responses.

being the sentimental attachement... 1 BILLION DOLLARS!!!!!!!! ;)

realistically. not sure. :D

Edited by dazman

Honestly I'd say bugger all maybe $1000. You'll probably see a better return parting it out (and that's probably what any buyer would do anyway).

thanks for the advice on that mate..

i have no illusions about this getting restored. but i need to move the whole thing in one hit. rather than parting it out.

the joys of lack of space..

:starwars:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...