Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got leftover parts from my RB26 build.

N1 Block that has a cracked cylinder 6, possibly repairable if you were sleeving the block, otherwise a good coffee table, open to offers

R34 RB26 crank, grub screwed, race prepped, balanced, never machined - $400

R33 stock pistons and rods, one piston has a cracked and melted ringland - $100

Nearly new oil pump $100

RB26 balancer $100

Fully built JHH RB26 head, CNC porting, 1mm oversized supertech valve, supertech springs and valve guides too, Tomei 272 cams, however cylinder 6 will require rebuilding after a valve head decided it didnt want to play games anymore, entertaining offers on the head, I'll probably keep it and fix it up, was used in a setup making over 400kw on 21psi with a GT3582R, the idle this gave the 26 was what dreams were made of, WERE made of (FML) I'll try find the receipts for this head, but there is $1000's spent on it, lots of thousands

I'll get some pics up soon

Located near Coffs Harbour, NSW

Hopefully i've replied to all the PM's, my phone recently died, so i'm running a potato for a phone now, i could probably sketch a picture with more detail than what that would give you.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...