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I've got leftover parts from my RB26 build.

N1 Block that has a cracked cylinder 6, possibly repairable if you were sleeving the block, otherwise a good coffee table, open to offers

R34 RB26 crank, grub screwed, race prepped, balanced, never machined - $400

R33 stock pistons and rods, one piston has a cracked and melted ringland - $100

Nearly new oil pump $100

RB26 balancer $100

Fully built JHH RB26 head, CNC porting, 1mm oversized supertech valve, supertech springs and valve guides too, Tomei 272 cams, however cylinder 6 will require rebuilding after a valve head decided it didnt want to play games anymore, entertaining offers on the head, I'll probably keep it and fix it up, was used in a setup making over 400kw on 21psi with a GT3582R, the idle this gave the 26 was what dreams were made of, WERE made of (FML) I'll try find the receipts for this head, but there is $1000's spent on it, lots of thousands

I'll get some pics up soon

Located near Coffs Harbour, NSW

Hopefully i've replied to all the PM's, my phone recently died, so i'm running a potato for a phone now, i could probably sketch a picture with more detail than what that would give you.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

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    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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