Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 - Battery In The Boot? Poll

WantGTR

By WantGTR,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Boot mount battery?  

14 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did mine on the weekend for weight saving/ transfer, bigger catch can and hard wiring fuel pump.

Very happy with the results.

interested in pics!

i have a few ideas about going to the boot but want to see what people are using as far as terminals in the engine bay/connectors as such.

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still needs finishing off but you get the gist.

http://imgur.com/8urJCNn

http://imgur.com/lA0p072

http://imgur.com/62gasGd

thanks! thats nice.

im assuming yours is still a street car? reason i ask is because the battery isnt in a box. i do prefer the battery mount only as a box can make the install to bulky. If i decide to go put it in the boot i may need to get a different battery as i have a huge one at the moment.

i know exactly which distribution block you used also lol

Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

I have mine in the boot (R32 GTS-T)

I have a dry cell battery in a morosso sealed box in the boot and a jump start point (+) where the battery used to be simply for convenien and a kill switch in the cabin

I'll get some photos tonight if you'd like!

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

thanks! thats nice.

im assuming yours is still a street car? reason i ask is because the battery isnt in a box. i do prefer the battery mount only as a box can make the install to bulky. If i decide to go put it in the boot i may need to get a different battery as i have a huge one at the moment.

i know exactly which distribution block you used also lol

Yeah mate, still a street car. Battery doesn't need to be in a box if it's a dry cell. I had a 15KG+ standard battery in the engine bay and pissed it off for the little 7KG dry cell.

The distribution block was very handy. I picked up most of the stuff from Jaycar.

  • 3 weeks later...
Cev Community Regular

Cev

Posted
Posted

Still needs finishing off but you get the gist.

http://imgur.com/8urJCNn

http://imgur.com/lA0p072

http://imgur.com/62gasGd

Keen. Where did you source all your gear?

I'd be interested in a shopping list if you can provide one :P

I'm looking to prepare my HNR32 shell for 26/30 swap, currently RB20 undergoing a makeover.

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

@gtr jet .. Nvm, found it all. What did you use the relay for?

Also which bracket is pictured in your photo?

Hey mate, the relay is for the fuel pump as it is now hard wired to the battery.

The bracket holding the battery down is just one I whipped up with some steel bar I had laying around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...