Whiteline Klc109 Rear Sway Bar Endlink?

[Torques]

Hi,

Just wondering if these endlinks are worth their money as opposed to the supplied somewhat crude looking endlinks?

(It's for an adjustable rear end swaybar on an R33 GTST)

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC109&sq=12993

Cheers

Supplied endlinks

Edited September 27, 2015 by Torques

[GTSBoy]

Are they worth the money? Possibly not, depending on how much value you place on money more than any other consideration. If you asked the question "do they do anything?" then the obvious answer is, yes. They are like any other solid joint. They don't allow any slip before transmitting the forces to the suspension component. The reaction of the bar to cornering loads is sharper, quicker. Better. Worth the money? Probably. I haven't been able to justify buying them to myself yet.

[Daleo]

The HD ball link is a lot nicer and more durable than the horrible loop style arrangement.

If you purchase a Whiteline front and rear bar kit for the R and S chassis cars now; they actually include the HD ball links.

They also deal much better with angular misalignment than the loop style ones; as they often just pop the bush out of the eyelet.

I can supply these for a pretty decent price if you're interested; shoot me a PM.

[hardsteppa]

urrrgh...those whiteline ones are like a lot of their stuff, overpriced for what they are.

Hardrace are good gear

http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_28_687&product_id=180

[Torques]

Thanks for the replies ..

I don't really like the hook and loop style ones and think the ball links are mechanically wise much nicer.

(very expensive though)

[hardsteppa]

fair enough...but the Hardrace ones are half the price of the whiteline ones, what's your definition of expensive?

[Torques]

fair enough...but the Hardrace ones are half the price of the whiteline ones, what's your definition of expensive?

Yes, you're right .. the Whitlines are very pricey and don''t look that convincing.

I also found these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-NISSAN-SUNNY-N14-1990-1994-REAR-BACK-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINKS-/130864103104?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan&hash=item1e781bbec0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-PATROL-1991-1997-FRONT-PAIR-STABILISER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINK-x-2-/291282784503?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan&hash=item43d1ce90f7

But am unsure what dimensions (length) I need

Edited September 30, 2015 by Torques

[GTSBoy]

Yes, you're right .. the Whitlines are very pricey and don''t look that convincing.

I think you're mistaking the pictures of the basic Whiteline ones that come with the bars and the uprated Whiteline ones that cost some coin.

[Torques]

I think you're mistaking the pictures of the basic Whiteline ones that come with the bars and the uprated Whiteline ones that cost some coin.

Hmmm .. aren't these the ones?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KLC109.JPG

[GTSBoy]

Those are the good ones. Ball joints at both ends. How are they "not convincing"?

[Torques]

They look a bit skimpy at the connecting link (the straight part) but maybe I'm wrong.

About AUD 150 in the UK and that is after a 10% discount

Edited October 1, 2015 by Torques

[hardsteppa]

Funny you should mention that, i have heard vague rumours of them breaking. Not enough to make a "thing" of, but, just that i had read that a few times before so could be something to it.

[Torques]

I mean for the price it should be top notch quality really ... it's a lot of money, almost what I paid for the sway bar itself

Funny you should mention that, i have heard vague rumours of them breaking. Not enough to make a "thing" of, but, just that i had read that a few times before so could be something to it.

[GTSBoy]

I think they only look skinny in the middle because the ends are so bulky. I mean, face it, they don't look like they are made of smaller material in the middle than any normal end link. That's got to be ~8mm threaded rod at the connection there.

[Daleo]

I think they only look skinny in the middle because the ends are so bulky. I mean, face it, they don't look like they are made of smaller material in the middle than any normal end link. That's got to be ~8mm threaded rod at the connection there.

The connecting threads are M10.

The only "Failures" I've seen are the result of people not tightening the locking nuts on the threaded section or on the aluminium "Turnbuckle" section; which allows the tread to fret, and eventually fail.

[Torques]

OK, thanks ..

Would anyone know how much 'preload' there is on these bars?

I mean how much do I have to adjust the length of the connecting links?

(with the car on the ground)

The connecting threads are M10.

The only "Failures" I've seen are the result of people not tightening the locking nuts on the threaded section or on the aluminium "Turnbuckle" section; which allows the tread to fret, and eventually fail.

[GTSBoy]

There's no such thing as "pre-load". With the car on a level surface there are no forces acting on an ARB.

[Torques]

Yes, sorry I didn't made my question clear enough.

I was concerned about the length adjustment of the end-links.

There's no such thing as "pre-load". With the car on a level surface there are no forces acting on an ARB.

[GTSBoy]

I guess the best (most centralised) adjustment will depend on your ride height. Realistically the setting you're looking for will be to ensure it doesn't bind/hit anything at your max bump or droop likely to be experienced.

The other consideration is that you might tweak the length of the links depending on which hole you have the bar set to. Probably only talking ~1 thread adjustment there though!

[KiwiRS4T]

I bought a set of the "expensive" Whiteline ones off Dale because the ones supplied with the bar sat at a bit of an awkward angle. They have withstood a hammering on the track with the weight of my 1800kg Stagea on slicks being thrown into corners so I don't think they are too fragile...