Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, my rotors have had their better days and are due for a change, actually that worn that they can't be machined. I have a track day coming up and don't want to risk it with those brakes flying down a straight at 200. I've read mixed reviews on all rotors, just wanted to see what everyone thought. What rotors would be recommended for slight track use but mainly a daily. Note my budget isn't the greatest !

Car is a R33 gts-t

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/
Share on other sites

Over the years I've only used 3 types of rotors in my Riceline, OEM, RDA Slotted and Dimpled and DBA T3 Slotted. In my opinion there was very little difference in performance between the three as far as on the track went. I found that the main difference came to how glazed the rotors where at the end of the day (OEM glazed badly, RDA was better and DBA was even better than RDA) and NVH (OEM had little to no NVH, DBA had a little and RDA had the most)

If I had to do it all over again and price wasn't a consideration, I'd probably go the DBAs for no other reason than I like the look of the slot pattern. In reality I'd probably just go an OEM or OEM style because I'm tighter these days!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610257
Share on other sites

I think that you should move down this list depending on budget and application:

1. Two piece floating rotor (PFC, Project Mu, etc)

2. Two piece rotor (DBA5000, etc)

3. One piece rotor with uni directional vanes (DBA4000, RDA, etc)

All will be suitable for light track work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610267
Share on other sites

Yeah if you want to waste even more money buy project mu.

Waste? Have had project mu on my car for years. They cope really well to track work and don't crack like I have experienced other rotors doing. The 2 piece I have on the front of my GTR have stood up really, really well. Something I cant say for their equivalent in a DBA or an RDA. So, yeah, if waste is fixing it once, properly, then waste away. You don't need to spend big dollars on Pommie stuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610838
Share on other sites

How much are you paying for your DBA rotors? And how many times do you multiply that by for replacement and/or machining?

Not all PMu rotors are two piece they have a number of different one piece options.

Anyway there is an option there. How cheap or how hard he uses them is up to him.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610902
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...