Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, my rotors have had their better days and are due for a change, actually that worn that they can't be machined. I have a track day coming up and don't want to risk it with those brakes flying down a straight at 200. I've read mixed reviews on all rotors, just wanted to see what everyone thought. What rotors would be recommended for slight track use but mainly a daily. Note my budget isn't the greatest !

Car is a R33 gts-t

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/
Share on other sites

Over the years I've only used 3 types of rotors in my Riceline, OEM, RDA Slotted and Dimpled and DBA T3 Slotted. In my opinion there was very little difference in performance between the three as far as on the track went. I found that the main difference came to how glazed the rotors where at the end of the day (OEM glazed badly, RDA was better and DBA was even better than RDA) and NVH (OEM had little to no NVH, DBA had a little and RDA had the most)

If I had to do it all over again and price wasn't a consideration, I'd probably go the DBAs for no other reason than I like the look of the slot pattern. In reality I'd probably just go an OEM or OEM style because I'm tighter these days!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610257
Share on other sites

I think that you should move down this list depending on budget and application:

1. Two piece floating rotor (PFC, Project Mu, etc)

2. Two piece rotor (DBA5000, etc)

3. One piece rotor with uni directional vanes (DBA4000, RDA, etc)

All will be suitable for light track work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610267
Share on other sites

Yeah if you want to waste even more money buy project mu.

Waste? Have had project mu on my car for years. They cope really well to track work and don't crack like I have experienced other rotors doing. The 2 piece I have on the front of my GTR have stood up really, really well. Something I cant say for their equivalent in a DBA or an RDA. So, yeah, if waste is fixing it once, properly, then waste away. You don't need to spend big dollars on Pommie stuff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610838
Share on other sites

How much are you paying for your DBA rotors? And how many times do you multiply that by for replacement and/or machining?

Not all PMu rotors are two piece they have a number of different one piece options.

Anyway there is an option there. How cheap or how hard he uses them is up to him.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460013-rotors/#findComment-7610902
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can.   I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.
    • I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque  What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques 
    • I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
    • Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'
    • That too, but I think this is why she's put the work into the cam cover baffles. I mean, a catch can should only need to be a catch can, not an oil air separator also. Not to say that putting the effort into having it do a better job of oil-air sep is a waste of time, but doing the sep earlier is always going to make life better. And that should happen now anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...