Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thank you.

Incase I am able to somehow come into a RB25 for cheap and that runs good, does anyone have links to posts about how to put a RB25 into a R32 with pictures? I found many posts but they don't have pictures. Also does any shops in Australia make the wiring loom for that swap?

swap two pins and run a VCT trigger, not rocket science

If I do not know what I am doing or what the items look like and have no pictures for reference, actually it is hard. From what I have read I have to splice RB25 injector loom onto the RB20 injector loom, mess with the main harness loom and more. Pics of the things and plugs I will have to cut and modify will help so I am not guessing.

For everyone who has done it before, easy, but for someone who doesn't know , not easy. If I do this in the future, I don't want to waste things.

For example, I found a post where someone has pictures of the speedos and how to modify them to work with the RB20 dash.

I have read some people say use the RB20 loom, some people say RB25 loom.

It is really VERY easy. You lay the RB25 Neo loom down on the floor. You lay the RB20 loom down next to it. You keep everything in the Neo loom that has to do with the engine and the ECU. You replace all the bits from the Neo loom that connect to stuff on the body that don't work the same as the R32 loom, with bits from the R32 loom. You probably need to have the wiring diagrams for each on hand to make sure you don't make some horrible mistakes. The diagrams are freely available. It will take you a couple of days once you start.

The air-con is a pain in the arse though. Still haven't quite got mine working. The R34 system is a tiny bit more sophisticated than the R32.

The speedo is easy. Just google the Navara speedo mod.

Patience is overwhelming in this and his other thread.

Does not compute. Feelings of rage rising seeing this thread continually appearing.

Master troll or complete numpty.

I think master troll at work, could be Christian himself causing a stir to bring activity back onto the forum.

No Troll, I am asking how to do something, I have searched and cannot find it but instead of help I get troll troll, ?????? Are you people f*&ked up?

It is really VERY easy. You lay the RB25 Neo loom down on the floor. You lay the RB20 loom down next to it. You keep everything in the Neo loom that has to do with the engine and the ECU. You replace all the bits from the Neo loom that connect to stuff on the body that don't work the same as the R32 loom, with bits from the R32 loom. You probably need to have the wiring diagrams for each on hand to make sure you don't make some horrible mistakes. The diagrams are freely available. It will take you a couple of days once you start.

The air-con is a pain in the arse though. Still haven't quite got mine working. The R34 system is a tiny bit more sophisticated than the R32.

The speedo is easy. Just google the Navara speedo mod.

Thanks! I found the Navara speedo cable mod earlier. It has pictures. So I'll research the ac fittings part. So you used a engine from a R34? Thanks

It has been said multiple times in this thread to use a RB25 neo, which comes from an R34.

The people here aren't f**ked up its that this forum attracts noticeably slow-minded people who don't usually listen and don't usually take advice.

I think a rb25 would be a choice mate. So would a rb26. But from a stock piont. The pistons ring lands are crap. For me it failed after 22 psi. Next it has a few oil problems when puched to hard. First the crank collar then the right oil restrictors according to oil pump and rpm your going to need all based on what restrictor size. Then you would want to vent the block and have a back up head drain for me on both sides of the motor worked well. Then if all of that works out. For me around 30psi the hydraulic lifters start to fail. So by saying that you can do what ive always wanted to do. Use a NEO head as its solid lifters already. I have found oil control in the rb25 way harder to control than a rb26. But it is possible. I would also invest in a oil accumulator and a bettet sump. There you go thats my experience as well as my 2 cents.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...